{"id":1467,"date":"2018-04-20T00:01:46","date_gmt":"2018-04-19T14:01:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/?p=1467"},"modified":"2018-04-20T16:12:19","modified_gmt":"2018-04-20T06:12:19","slug":"day-44","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/day-44\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 44"},"content":{"rendered":"

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From: <\/strong>Worsthorne to Kelbrook
\nDistance:\u00a0<\/strong>14m \/ 22.4
\nCumulated distance: <\/strong>585m \/ 941km
\nPercentage completed: <\/strong>56.9<\/p>\n

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Skiers have an expression for days like today. They call it a ‘Bluebird Day’ .. cloudless blue skies with the sun shining down from dawn till dusk. We’d had an inkling of what was coming when we saw the sunset yesterday evening, spilling over Pendle Hill.<\/p>\n

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Sunset over Pendle Hill, sadly notorious for being the location of the execution of the Pendle witches in the 17th century<\/p><\/div>\n

There was a fairly long walk ahead of us today to Kelbrook, so we headed off early, straight after breakfast. The map revealed the criss-crossing of a patchwork of public paths, indicating just how popular the moorland area is among walkers. We first had to retrace our steps for a mile or so, up the ancient Gorple Road.\u00a0<\/span>It was originally the main artery for the woollen trade between industrial East Lancashire and the Calder Valley of Yorkshire, way before the days of railways and canals. It climbs high over the Pennines on a lonely, isolated route but we left it not far from Worsthorne, to rejoin the Pennine Bridleway.<\/span><\/p>\n

The views were sublime. First there were pastoral scenes, with the ubiquitous sheep and lambs.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Outskirts of the village of Worsthorne<\/p><\/div>\n

But as we headed on to the Bridleway, very quickly the landscape changed to wide empty moorland. Each area of moor merged seamlessly into the next. It was only by looking on the map that you could identify their different, enchanting names:\u00a0 Entwistle Moor, Red Spa Moor, Bedding Hill Moor, Pot Brinks Moor and Enmost Moor, to name but a few.<\/p>\n

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Swinden Reservoir\u00a0 beyond Wasnop Edge<\/p><\/div>\n

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Day-time Pendle Hill<\/p><\/div>\n

The trials of the Pendle witches in 1612 are among the most famous witch trials in English history, and some of the best recorded of the 17th century. The twelve people accused lived in the area surrounding Pendle Hill.\u00a0They were charged with the murders of ten people by witchcraft.\u00a0Of the eleven who went to trial, nine women and two men, ten were found guilty and executed by hanging; one was found not guilty. We were told by locals that the hangings took place at the foot of Pendle Hill. In today’s weather it was difficult to believe.<\/span><\/p>\n

Of course there were a few sheep to be seen on the moors .. as well as some woolly saddle-back cattle.<\/p>\n

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Sheepy poseurs<\/p><\/div>\n

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Cattle oblivious to the views<\/p><\/div>\n

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Curious calf<\/p><\/div>\n

It felt very good to be heading north again. We sat and drank tea and ate good (but far from divine) flapjack, overlooking the little village of Thursden, in its wooded valley. To the right were the moors which are probably haunted to this day, by the ghosts of Heathcliff and Cathy. The Bronte sisters, Charlotte, Emily and Anne and their wayward brother, Branwell, lived at the vicarage in Haworth, over to the east. It was easy to see what inspired the desolation which pervades many of their novels. The moors are beautiful today with the sun adding a feeling of optimism, but their unwooded bleakness on greyer days was not difficult to imagine. The PBW for a short distance, shared its path with the Bronte Way, which made my companion very happy, being a big fan of the sisters’ books.<\/span><\/p>\n

The views just kept coming. And the sun kept shining.<\/p>\n

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Bridleway shared by walkers, horse-riders and cyclists<\/p><\/div>\n

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Beyond Trawden, looking back once again to Pendle Hill<\/p><\/div>\n

About halfway through the day we arrived in Wycoller. I\u2019d been looking forward to making a stop here, and not just for the tearoom, which looked every bit as enticing as I’d hoped. There are various ancient bridges which cross Wycoller Beck .. Pack-Horse Bridge, Clapper Bridge and Clam Bridge. Clam is a listed ancient monument and is a remarkable 1000 years old .. dating it to neolithic times. It\u2019s really just a slab of stone across the banks but the thought of the footfall over the centuries is pretty amazing.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Clam Bridge<\/p><\/div>\n

Wycoller Hall is believed to be the inspiration for Ferndean Manor in \u2018Jane Eyre\u2019. The one where Mr Rochester kept his mad first wife locked up in the attic. Charlotte Bronte<\/span>\u00a0would have passed through here on her way to Gawthorpe Hall when she went to stay with the Kay-Shuttleworths, so it’s easy to believe that it was her inspiration.\u00a0<\/span>The hall was pulled down in 1818 but\u00a0<\/span>the ruins are still believed to play host to spectral guests.<\/span><\/p>\n

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16th century Wycoller Hall<\/p><\/div>\n

But the most interesting bit for me about Wycoller is the fact that Clapper Bridge played a role in \u2018The Railway Children\u2019, the best children\u2019s film of all time, made in the 1970s.\u00a0In a sequence from the film, Bobbie (Jenny Agutter) is seen sitting on the bridge, talking to Dr Forrest who is driving his pony and trap through the ford.\u00a0<\/span>I\u2019ve lost count of the number of times I\u2019ve seen it, never failing to cry at the ending, when Roberta is reunited with her father on the train station platform. At first the steam of the engine clouds her vision but then, as it slowly dissipates, she sees him standing there, returning to her life after several years in prison, where he had been wrongly incarcerated. I can still hear her crying out as she runs towards him arms outstretched, \u2018Daddy, oh my Daddy\u2019. My father and sister used to weep buckets at it too.<\/p>\n

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Brooks and streams along the way<\/p><\/div>\n

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Babbling brook<\/p><\/div>\n

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Mid-afternoon view over to Pendle Hill<\/p><\/div>\n

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Checking for trolls, ‘with eyes as big as saucers’<\/p><\/div>\n

Regular readers of the blog will know I have a soft spot for sheep. Why else would I be walking through the lambing season. This afternoon we came across a huddle of sheep which was anything but cute, very far from being photogenic. In fact they looked more like bulldogs than sheep. Are any of you readers sheep officionados .. is this a breed or were they simply having an off day? They did cause us a lot of mirth .. but not until they were well out of earshot, of course, to save their feelings.<\/p>\n

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Bulldog sheep<\/p><\/div>\n

After a couple more hills we came to a beautifully located pub for a very welcome swift half. It tasted like nectar. The view looked back over the day’s walk, giving us cause to pat each other on the back.<\/p>\n

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‘I’ll just have half’<\/p><\/div>\n

From the Black Lane Ends pub we had a scant two miles to walk to Kelbrook, our stop for the night. There was some nifty map-reading and bog-dodging to do but it was a charming path mostly downhill to the village, with lapwings scooting through the air entertaining us with their beautiful song. Perfect end to a bluebird day.<\/p>\n

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Pretty Kelbrook overlooked by elves<\/p><\/div>\n

And finally, to show that Yorkshire can do more than high brow, Kelbrook proudly tells you that the creator of the Wombles, Elisabeth Beresford, wrote much of \u2018The Wandering Wombles\u2019 while staying in the village. Residents of Kelbrook are affectionately known as Kelbricks in the area.<\/span><\/p>\n

Black Dog Tails<\/strong>
\nStella went from being a rescue dog to being a police dog, working tirelessly with officer Claire Todd.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Skiers have an expression for days like today ..<\/p>\n

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