{"id":1494,"date":"2018-04-25T00:01:35","date_gmt":"2018-04-24T14:01:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/?p=1494"},"modified":"2018-04-25T17:26:20","modified_gmt":"2018-04-25T07:26:20","slug":"day-48","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/day-48\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 48"},"content":{"rendered":"

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From:\u00a0<\/strong>Hawes to Thwaite
\nDistance:\u00a0<\/strong>9m \/ 14.4km
\nCumulated distance:\u00a0<\/strong>631m \/ 1015km
\nPercentage completed:\u00a0<\/strong>61.4<\/p>\n

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I completely fell in love with Hawes and in particular The White Hart Inn, where I stayed for my rest day. If you ever have the good fortune to visit the market town make sure you at least call in at the White Hart and have their pulled beef. It is utterly delicious and you’ll be guaranteed a very warm welcome.\u00a0http:\/\/www.whitehartcountryinn.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n

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The fabulous White Hart Inn<\/p><\/div>\n

I met some lovely people staying there too. Amongst them, a quietly-spoken, delightful American couple who were in Yorkshire for a campanologist workshop. We met over breakfast and got to talking about the menu. The lady was keen to try the black pudding. ‘Is it anything like the sticky toffee pudding I had last night at dinner? It was delicious.’ she asked. She very politely tried a teeny corner when it arrived but judging from how much was graciously returned to the kitchen, it didn’t taste at all as she’d expected.<\/p>\n

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Hawes<\/p><\/div>\n

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Bedding plants for sale in the weekly market<\/p><\/div>\n

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Gayle Beck running through Hawes<\/p><\/div>\n

I’d given myself a short day today. Just ten miles. Joining today and tomorrow together it would have been just too long .. 17 miles.\u00a0<\/span>Had I been doing today\u2019s walk a few years back, I would have been anticipating a day of squelching in peat bogs. With the new paved path, there\u2019s little chance of me sinking to my waist and having to perform windmill arms to attract rescuing attention, like my friends Marian and Phil Slater. Nevertheless, I\u2019m taking a short day today as accommodation is also pretty restrictive.<\/span><\/p>\n

Leaving Hawes was a bit of a wrench. My rest day had been blissful. A great massage with Jac had put my legs and feet right, a gentle amble through the town and some of its shops had been lovely and then just relaxing, with my feet up for most of the day catching up on all sorts of things on the computer had been a joy. It doesn’t take much to make me happy! Once again, if you do find yourself in Hawes, give yourself a treat and contact Jac at Fringez N Freckles for a great massage.\u00a0https:\/\/www.yell.com\/biz\/fringez-n-freckles-hawes-5086003\/<\/a><\/p>\n

Following the River Ure out of town it wasn’t long before I came to the hamlet of Hardraw, with its beautiful waterfall. Along the way, the views back of Hawes were very pretty in the sunlight.<\/p>\n

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Looking back at Hawes<\/p><\/div>\n

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River Ure<\/p><\/div>\n

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Cute lamb who had his eye on my hat, I think<\/p><\/div>\n

At Hardraw I pulled in for a very early coffee. I’d not long since had breakfast but the deal is you have to pay to see the waterfall as it’s on the private land of The Green Dragon Inn and at the little turnstile, there is an excellent, quirky cafe. My \u00a32.50 was well spent .. the gardens and picnic area approaching the waterfall were beautifully kept.<\/p>\n

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Hardraw Force .. see the people behind for scale<\/p><\/div>\n

The Force is England`s largest single drop waterfall .. 100 feet.\u00a0 It’s set within the grounds of the historic Green Dragon Inn. The arc of stone behind the Force is just as impressive as the fall itself.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Trees clinging to the edge at the top<\/p><\/div>\n

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Hardraw Beck beyond the Force<\/p><\/div>\n

Leaving Hardraw on the PW there was a long and steady climb. I saw virtually no-one all day up on the moorland .. just a couple of black grouse. Not too surprising as the rain set in and the wind picked up to almost gale-force towards the highest point. The names along the way may have sounded cute\u00a0 .. Bluebell Hill, Swallow Hole, Jinglemea Bog .. but the atmosphere was anything but.<\/p>\n

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Leaving the sun behind<\/p><\/div>\n

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Part of the paved path, laid to help prevent the erosion by walkers<\/p><\/div>\n

The path of large paving stones uses slabs of various origins, including those that once made up the floors of old cotton mills. Every so often I’d come across a slab which had a bolt still sitting proud or a rectangular hole where once a piece of machinery might have been fixed. Transporting the huge and heavy tiles up to furnish the way must have been an enormous undertaking. On Pen-Y-Ghent, the flags were lifted into place by helicopter and so it’s possible the same was true elsewhere along the Way.<\/p>\n

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Rain on the flagstones<\/p><\/div>\n

Along the way I came across several piles of stones. Looking on the map to see if it could shed any light on their origin, all I could see was the phrase ‘Piles of Stones’, repeated numerous times. I know the old path was made up of stones before the flags were laid so I wonder if the piles are the original path .. too heavy and expensive to remove.<\/p>\n

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Piles of Stones<\/p><\/div>\n

The mist started to drift across the landscape, obscuring the way ahead.<\/p>\n

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Now you see it ..<\/p><\/div>\n

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.. now you don’t.<\/p><\/div>\n

As the way became a little steeper there were shades of Cornwall’s South West Coast Path, with its endless irregular steps. At the top, at Great Shunner Fell there is reportedly a great look out. Not so today. I took a scant look and carried on, wishing I’d put more layers on.<\/p>\n

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Deja vu<\/p><\/div>\n

Many stone cairns punctuate the Way. On the way down into Thwaite there was a particularly impressive one.<\/p>\n

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Looking down into Swaledale<\/p><\/div>\n

There\u2019s a long moorland descent into the tiny village of Thwaite, where I was stopping for the night. The village was the home and birthplace of Richard and Cherry Kearton. A truly fascinating pair of brothers. Back in the day, ie the Victorian day, photos of badgers, weasels and stoats were not that highly prized. Until the brothers Kearton appeared on the scene, that is. They were pioneering wildlife photographer brothers who would have cocked a snook at the Attenboroughs. They resorted to the most extraordinary lengths to get good close-up snaps of every sort of animal and bird imaginable. Having no telephoto lenses or fast film, they had to lug around massive plate glass cameras and devise ever more bizarre ways to get close to their shy quarries. \u2018In 1898, Richard Kearton, who had fallen out of a tree while collecting birds’ eggs as a child and had one leg six inches shorter than the other, had a brainwave. He asked his butcher to buy an ox, skin it and send the hide to a London taxidermist. The hollow bovine was a triumph. The brothers would carry it around, plant it in fields, ponds or anywhere close to birds’ nests and then crawl inside its belly with the camera lens poking through a hole in its head. But the ox had several near-fatal drawbacks. Not only did the brothers have to endure excruciating back pain as they waited up to eight hours at a time to get a single picture, but in breezy weather it had a tendency to blow over ..\u00a0 <\/span>to the surprise of the birds they were filming. “Once out of sheer agony I dropped from the bottom (of the cow). Upon seeing me the bird sprang almost vertically in the air and, dropping among the grass, stared with outstretched neck in blank amazement,” Richard Kearton recalled.<\/span><\/p>\n

Despite the humorous, not to say un-pc methods .. plastering trees with honey to attract insects, firing revolvers to disturb birds and reveal their nesting places, remaining hidden for days under mounds of peat to film Skua in the Orkneys ..\u00a0 <\/span>the brothers undoubtedly changed the face of wildlife photography. Cherry went even further, producing documentaries in Africa and then taking some of the rare film footage of WWI in Ypres.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cherry standing on Richard’s shoulders to take a photo of a bird’s nest<\/p><\/div>\n

As I came down the last couple of hundred metres of the day, I was delighted and so happy to see my old friend Nick, coming up the lane to meet me. We’ll have the next few days walking together, with others joining along the way.<\/p>\n

Black Dog Tails<\/strong>
\n“Opal means hope and life to me!\u201d beams Alexis, who was born with brittle bone disease. Opal is a Service Dog, provided for Alexis free of charge by Assistance Dogs Australia.<\/span><\/p>\n

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I completely fell in love with Hawes and ..<\/p>\n

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