{"id":1500,"date":"2018-04-26T00:01:55","date_gmt":"2018-04-25T14:01:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/?p=1500"},"modified":"2018-04-26T05:19:58","modified_gmt":"2018-04-25T19:19:58","slug":"day-49","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/julesforth.com\/walkingtheblackdog\/day-49\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 49"},"content":{"rendered":"

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From:\u00a0<\/strong>Thwaite to Tan Hill Inn
\nDistance: 8<\/strong>m \/ 12.8km
\nCumulated distance: <\/strong>647m \/ 1041km
\nPercentage completed<\/strong>: 62.9<\/p>\n

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It was another short day today. We had to \u2018keep a sharp eye open\u2019 this morning so that we didn\u2019t leave Thwaite on the Coast to Coast Path instead of the Pennine Way. The two cross in the village, heading off to entirely different destinations. I woke up very early in time for the sunrise. From the window I could see the glorious colours across the hills.<\/span><\/p>\n

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View from Kearton Country Hotel early in the morning<\/p><\/div>\n

We had a very leisurely start, taking time over our kippers and scrambled eggs, only leaving around ten.<\/p>\n

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Off to a cracking start ..<\/p><\/div>\n

Thwaite is a very pretty, unspoilt little village in Swaledale. We climbed out of the village fairly quickly and contoured above the River Swale to Keld, another lovely village.\u00a0The name Keld derives from the Viking word Kelda meaning a spring and the village was once called Appletre Kelde – the spring near the apple trees. I love finding out about the origin of these names.<\/span><\/p>\n

The sunshine raced across the landscape, delivering wildly contrasting photographs of the river and valley.<\/p>\n

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Looking back at Thwaite<\/p><\/div>\n

Nick has always had a penchant for rude bothies. I was able to find him several today, although they were all rather too comfortable-looking for his liking.<\/p>\n

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Nick with his first choice<\/p><\/div>\n

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Ingenious if primitive way to keep the door closed<\/p><\/div>\n

The River Swale looked beautiful from above, meandering over shallows and rapids. It’s a major tributary of the River Ure, which I walked along for a short time yesterday. This then becomes the River Ouse, emptying into the North Sea via the Humber Estuary.<\/span><\/p>\n

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River Swale<\/p><\/div>\n

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Mist approaching<\/p><\/div>\n

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Trees clinging to the sides of the valley<\/p><\/div>\n

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Warm one minute and cool the next<\/p><\/div>\n

Across the valley, on the other side of the Swale, we could see the intriguingly named Crackpot Hall, now lying in ruin. Visitors to the home in the 1930s, reported seeing a 4 year old girl called Alice, with a crazy laugh, ‘wild like the moors around her’. I’d love to tell you tales of how she evolved into Mrs Rochester .. but history does not recall any more.<\/p>\n

Half way through the day we took a small detour into Keld, to find lunch. Sadly, the pub didn’t open until 2.30 for food .. go figure. We took advantage of their cosy porch and ate our rucksack-squeezed sandwiches without a pint of Wallop.<\/p>\n

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Approaching Keld<\/p><\/div>\n

The guidebook warns walkers to leave the marked path from Keld to Tanhouse at their peril .. \u2018the open mouths of old colliery bell-pits await the unwary\u2019. All in all it sounded as if it were to be pretty bleak. But actually it was absolutely fine. We had a 100 metre climb out of the valley and then there was a flat approach to Tan Hill.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dramatic but completely safe landscape<\/p><\/div>\n

Like the good fairy, Tan Hill Inn suddenly appeared on the horizon out of the blue, offering comfort and sustenance. The PW goes straight past it. It\u2019s the highest pub in England and offers an enterprising range of accommodation, including the fluorescent orange H\u00e4gglund BV206, cracked up to being the \u2018ultimate luxury camping experience\u2019. This needed to be investigated .. had I made a grave mistake in opting for the single room with bath. The H\u00e4gglund is a Swedish-made amphibious personnel carrier. It’s been used extensively across 35 countries, in particular by the Norwegian armed forces. I could<\/i> go on about its hydraulic cylinders, its steel reinforced rubber tracks etc etc .. but there was a chilled wine waiting for me and a pint of the specially brewed Tan Hill Ale for Nick inside the pub and anyway, I\u2019m quite happy with a conventional bed and bath. The light on the moors at the end of the day was utterly glorious.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Path from which we came<\/p><\/div>\n

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AC arrives .. guess which car. Yep, the car transporter.<\/p><\/div>\n

Black Dog Tails<\/strong>
\nThis bright-eyed little girl is called Fire. She’s pictured here with Sgt Maj \u00a0Andy Dodds. Together they collected a\u00a0medal for bravery for Sasha, another bomb disposal dog, who died in Afghanistan.<\/span><\/p>\n


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It was another short day today …<\/p>\n

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