From: Land’s End to Pendeen
Distance: 10.5m / 16.8km
Cumulated distance: 10.5m / 16.8km
Percentage completed: 1.02
Day 1
When I planned this walk a year ago, I chose the first of March to begin, imagining I would be starting in the spring. Daffodils, gambolling lambs and lengthening days full of energy-giving sunshine .. you get the idea. I had not counted on the Beast of the East and Storm Emma. Nor had Cornwall, come to that. As I made my way down the south-western counties by train yesterday, the countryside was shrouded in snow. Very, very pretty. But with the prospect of the Beast and Emma conspiring to bring blizzards for the first time in centuries to Cornwall (ok .. decades), my excitement butterflies were now mixed up with more than a small dose of apprehension.
View from the train
Arriving in Penzance to find all bus and taxi drivers had scarpered home to spend the rest of the day by the fire, I did the only thing a girl could do and retired to the pub. And what could be better than a pub with a Jolly Roger flag flapping from above the front door.
The hospitable Admiral Benbow
The gods were looking after me in a big way yesterday. My way to Pendeen may have been scuppered by taxi and bus but I had my own Light Brigade who came to my rescue a few hours later. Liz and Graham, undeterred by their cancelled flight from London, took up the challenge and came down from London by train and hire car. Bundled into their SUV Mr Light drove and Mrs Light navigated our way across the indescribably pretty countryside as the sun set, to Pendeen and our bed for the night.
Gorgeous evening Light!
Warm welcome at Pendeen’s North Inn
This morning I woke up at 4am. I felt as excited as a kid on Christmas Day! I’d been looking forward to this moment for months and months. Plotting and planning and fine-tuning the route. Chiselling down the contents of my pack. Walking my socks off in preparation for walking Land’s End to John o’Groats.. I could barely believe the day had arrived .. nor that it was a complete white out! The launch dinner and the sunshine of Sydney seemed a million miles away. Stepping out into sub zero temps with snow and a bitter wind was not going to be stopping me!
The idea was to drive to Land’s End and then walk back to Pendeen along the South West Coast Path. However, Emma and the Beast had other plans for us. The road was littered with abandoned cars and very soon we too had to leave ours as the steep and icy road leading to Land’s End was closed. Impassable. And so started the trek in the snow to get to Land’s End to start the walk! And so too started a rather upside down first day .. we’d started out from the North Inn which was my most southerly accommodation of the walk; found ourselves walking due south to get to Land’s End .. which felt all wrong when I should have been heading north; and then, with temperatures plummeting we hitched a lift back to the car. Yes, you heard right .. hitched a lift! BUT I promise you, from the car back to Pendeen, Liz and I walked while Graham took charge of the car. So, the net result was that between Land’s End and Pendeen I walked the whole way! As planned! The circumstances were exceptional, don’t you think!
The walk to get to the start of the walk
Getting to the start
‘
I’d like to know if I’m the first LEJOGer to start the journey in the snow in Cornwall. I’m sure there’ll have been a few starting out from John o’Groats who have had to put on their skiing kit to brave the chill. Still, there have been some great stats recorded about the walk over the years. The first recorded End to End walk was completed by the brothers John and Robert Naylor in 1871. The fastest time between the two points came in 1988 when a McDonnell Douglas F-4K Phantom made it in a stunning 46 minutes 44 seconds. On the silliness front, David Sullivan hit a ball all the way from end to end in 2005, enabling him to pitch it in the Guinness Book of Records, as the longest golf hole in the country. Other modes of transport used to cover the miles have been horse-drawn carriages, a microlight, various traction engines and my personal favourite: a motorised supermarket trolley. However, it’s Andrew Rivett who holds the record for the fastest on foot .. a staggering 9 days 2 hours 26 minutes, meaning he ran an average of 18 hours a day. Well, Andrew can sleep soundly in his bivouac knowing a challenge is not about to be mounted!
For the first couple of weeks of the End to End, I’ve planned to walk along the northern section of the South West Coast Path, a national trail which hugs the Cornish coastline. Today it was just way too hazardous and I suspect that tomorrow will be the same. The Path is supposed to be ruggedly beautiful but I’ve also been warned about the many steps along the route, which can wreak havoc with your knees. In preparation I’ve been clambering up and down the stairs on the walk between Bondi and Bronte beaches, along the coastal path from the Spit to Manly and in our stupidly steep garden in sunny Sydney, But for now my knees are safe.
Digging in
The coast of Cornwall, particularly in the south, is hugely rich in legends and history. Think Tintagel, Poldark and Jamaica Inn. Tales of wrecks, wreckers and smugglers. It also has a mining history going back to the Bronze Age. Just off the coast between Land’s End and the Scilly Isles, beneath the waves, lies the lost land of Lyoness, a significant part of King Arthur’s kingdom. It’s believed it was washed to sea on a cataclysmically stormy night, many moons ago .. not unlike today! Numerous smugglers have also met their deaths in these treacherous waters and there are apparently over 130 ship-wrecks littered in watery graves, just offshore. And that’s just the recorded ones. Brrrr!
Liz and I heading south ..
Tonight I’m back at the North Inn in Pendeen and the lovely Lights have headed back to the warmth of the city. The pub is a lively tavern and like many other Cornish villages on or near the coast, it had a reputation at one time for smuggling. Poldark was filmed not far from here and the landlord, along with other locals, were convincing extras in the series.
Star of Poldark
The first day has been a long one .. waking up in the wee hours, impatient to get going. And walking in snow is surprisingly tiring without skis!
I knew that I would be bowled over by the kindness of strangers on this walk. All the blogs I’ve read have said this. Today I was so grateful to Lou and Mike who went out of their way to drive us back to our car. They’re just starting up a B&B in the area which I’m sure will be a huge success. If you’re in the area be sure to book with them .. you’re bound to have the warmest of welcomes: www.landsendholidays.co.uk
Black Dog Tails
Before I can sleep I must introduce you to Jake and Mary Flood. At 10 months old Jake was abandoned by his owner with appalling injuries. Mary nursed him back to health and then trained him as a rescue dog. He helped hundreds after Hurricanes Rita and Katrina and was one of a handful of brave dogs who worked on 9/11, rescuing survivors of the terrorist attack. No wonder a top Manhattan restaurant rewarded him with one of their best sirloins!
You look so happy in the photos, and no wonder, you have faced a first huge challenge and beaten it. Spring is hiding for now but when the snow melts and the sun shines, what beauty awaits! Looking forward to your daily blog. xx
You’re right .. the smile stayed on my face throughout the blizzardy day! Thanks for your support. x
What a great start – the photos look like they were taken on a hike in Switzerland – or the Himalayas. It is probably warmer there. What a day! Loved your writing!
Baltic here! And The North Inn is hugely welcoming but my room almost has icicles forming! Jx
Our best wishes are with you.
Manju, Brijesh
Wonderful to hear from you Manju and Brijesh .. so uplifting to get all these well wishes! xx
What a start……Beast from the East and Emma are not giving you the ‘warm’ reception you needed or deserve. Good luck……but most of stay safe. X
Thank you for your lovely ‘warm’ wishes Liz! So welcome. xx
Go Jules!! So glad you’ve started safely ( if rather unusally😀). Enjoy the snow.,hopefully spring will have sprung by the time we join you😂👍.love Nigel
Hey Jules sent a message but having trouble ‘getting through’ from this site. Thinking of you xx
Thanks a million .. I tell you, I wouldn’t like to be doing the Skinny here this weekend! Bring sunshine with you pls. xx
Inspiring reading Jules! Sending love from the western districts of Victoria xxx Marcus
Great to hear from you Marcus. Bet it’s a tad warmer with you! x
So……..those shorts that you have left with me, you don’t want me to send them to you yet ???!!!!!
Good luck Big Sis you are a huge inspiration to me and I love you loads x
Tee hee! Yes, you can hang on to the shorts for a while. Thank you for the lovely, lovely words .. looking forward to having you by my side. xx
Jules- you are a legend! To go from our beautiful late-summer Sydney to face Emma….. WOW!!! But the photos and your first day’s experiences show that this will be an incredible, surprise-filled adventure. The irony of the contrast – black dog against the white snow is not lost on us. It shows nature is doing her best to shrink that pooch to irrelevance. Have a wonderful journey. We look forward to all the updates!
Thank you so much!! And I love the message you found in the photo .. so clever. xx
Love the Lands End photo Jules and so excited for you to finally be on your big adventure. Will be wishing you a gentle following wind! Xx
Yes, it’s a wonderful feeling to have started at last!! By the sound of the gales blowing from my bed .. I don’t think gentle would be an adjective I’d use today about the weather!! xx
I’m so excited we have started the walk. I feel like we will all be with you every step of the way! Amazing about the snow. That can’t be a frequent occurrence. Happy tramping… xx
Ps made contact with Andrew who painted palm valley which we bought at the dinner. We are so enjoying the painting.
Lovely to hear from you, Lisa. Thrilled that you’re enjoying Andrew’s painting .. he did the 3 year Old Master Painting Technique course with me and is a truly talented and lovely person. xx
Good luck Jules! How lovely to wake up to pics of your smiling faces looking like you are in the Alps! X
Feels like we’re in the Alps, Sally!! Thanks so much for your message .. such a boost to receive. x
My dearest friend , I would have never expected to see photos of you in ski gear looking like you are about to climb Everest ! What an eventful first day you truly had , and I am sure your wonderful adventure will throw lots more unexpected situations , all the better for us lucky readers entertained by your eloquent story telling
Well done to you for handling the Beast from the East with such grace , Sophie xox
Thank you my lovely. So good hearing from you. And now .. out into the blizzard for today’s stretch of the walk! xxx
dobro pozhalovat’ v cornwall v Sibiri
Hi Jules. Looking forward to catching up soon. Enjoy your walks
Alon and Anne
xx
Bring the spring with you please!! xx
Very well done Jules. I wondered whether you would delay your start by a couple of days to get past the worst of this cold snap, but good on you for embracing it. And I totally agree with keeping off the SWCP while it’s icy. There’s adventure and there’s sheer recklessness, and the drops are very steep; you sound as if you know the difference. What wonderful photographs too.
Thanks so much, Helen! It is indeed a great adventure .. the smile hasn’t come off my face since I started! Sure you felt just the same.
What a start dear Jules!!
Looking forward to following your adventures in your writings, photos and drawings.
Just wonderful!
Wishing you warmth and sunshine 🌞
Petra xx
Petra, thank you for your kind words. A little warmth and sunshine would indeed be welcome right now! xx
Dear Jules – Jonathan and I are having a drink at MamaSan at Bondi and reading your blog. Eat your heart out Scott of the Antarctic!! What a start! What tales to tell your grandchildren!!
Very very beautiful though and entirely memorable. Take care and revel in the extremes…you thought you had to wait till Scotland! Xx
Can you believe it!! Not in a thousand years would I have thought I’d be walking through snowdrifts on the first day! Such lovely words, Frannie. Thank you. xx
Good luck Jules – what an epic start! Starting out in a record-breaking storm is definitely the best way to make memories that will last forever, especially in a country where we’re obsessed with the weather even when it’s behaving itself. 🙂
I’m really looking forward to following your progress. Have fun out there!
Mark
Fabulous to hear from you Mark! I so enjoyed reading your Lejog tales and based a lot of my approach on your musings! J
So pleased you managed to start Jules, looks beautiful, but no quite what you expect in Cornwall. Stay safe, look forward to reading day 2
Lots of love,
Margaret xxx
Lovely to get your message, Margaret .. feels like your walking with me. Daddy would have loved this walk .. although not the wind today! Jxx
Bon voyage from a fellow LEJOGer I walked it in 77 days in 2008. You have my admiration for starting off in these conditions. I hope to follow – good luck. Conrad Robinson. See my blog: conradwalks.blogspot.com – blogonym = Sir Hugh
I had not started blogging when I did the walk.
Delighted to hear from you, Conrad .. and thank you for your kind comments. I very much look forward to visiting your blog and reading all about your walks.
Lovely to meet you all yesterday.
Good luck with the rest of your journey and hope the weather will be kinder to you.
We will follow your travels. Best of luck.
Lands End Hostel and B&B
Lou and Mike, you were our guardian angels yesterday! Hugely grateful to you. Liz and Graham had their train cancelled from Truro back to London this morning and so rehired a car. Remembering your kindness they then offered anyone at the station a lift to London with them! The lady who took them up on the offer turned out to be from Zimbabwe .. where Graham and my husband and many of our friends come from! Karma at its best! Very best of luck with your new hotel .. we will be sure to visit when next down in Cornwall and hopefully stay in warmer climes! Thank you once again. You were kindness itself.
Amazing!! Lovely to see the “lovelies” 💡💡 were at your side. Xx
Yes, they were amazing!! xx
Congratulations!!!!! You are on your way. I am so looking forward to following your progress. What a champion!
With my precious pink quartz heart, how could I not make good progress! xx
What a wonderful summary to read of day one, and what a day it was ! Onwards and hopefully upwards, for day two x
Onwards and Upwards is apparently the Forth family motto! So your words were particularly well chosen. Lovely getting your message. Send love your mum please .. don’t think she subscribes. xx
How exciting Jules your vision and dream has begun. Albeit not with the weather you anticipated. Nevertheless, good luck and enjoy the beautiful countryside and the wonderful people that you will meet along your epic journey. I look forward to your next post.
Thank you for your message, Robyn .. so good to have friends at my side, even if it is metaphorically. x
My very best wishes on your wonderful endeavour, Jules!
I hope to keep up with your walk as Spring chases you up Britain. Like quite a few of your followers, I too walked LEJOG. Mine was in 2007 and 1,687 miles. I understand the difficulties of a 1st March start very well – finishing in the dark most evenings for the first three weeks…
Take care, and have a great time!
Lovely to hear from you Alan. Congratulations on completing the walk .. John o’Groats feels a long way off at the moment but many enjoyable miles in between! Thank you for joining up to follow me. Feels good to have so much support.
Go Jules! 1.02% down, 98.92 to go, but hopefully easier conditions here on in! Looking forward to joining you in the distant future 😁
Yes, please bring a little sunshine from the Gold Coast with you! All good here .. v exciting to be on my way at long last. Looking forward to having Atkins company later in the year. xx
What an adventure! So thrilled you are on your way! So glad we can join you this way.
Lovely to have you along for the journey, Anna! x