From: Gwithian to St Agnes Head
Distance: 14.4m / 23.04km
Cumulated distance: 49.2m / 79km
Percentage completed: 4.79
I learned a lot about contours today. And the fact that kilometres are not miles. And that steps can be very uneven.
I left the slice of heaven that is Nanterrow Farm at 8.30 after the most delicious of breakfasts, with bacon from the next door farm, eggs from happy chooks and Glynn’s home-made bread. I retraced my steps past the cows who were no longer curious ..
The herd far more interested in food
and the signs which had led me to Nanterrow Farm ..
It certainly was!
Today’s high cliff walk looked as if it could be a little treacherous, passing as it did past Hell’s Mouth and Deadman’s Cove. By contrast, the nearby Ralph’s Cupboard sounded pretty tame. But oh no, there are horribly sinister stories associated with this watery larder. Legend has it that Ralph the giant would lie there in wait for passing ships, attack them, steal the cargo and then devour the crew. Any loot would be squirrelled away in his so-called ‘cupboard’.
Hell’s Mouth
Next to Hell’s Mouth’s car park is a shack selling coffee, called Hell’s Mouth Café .. which I know would amuse my boy as it’s so close to one of his favourite restaurants called Hog’s Mouth Café.
The views from the clifftops today were spectacular and I lost count of the number of times I said that out loud. The morning was wonderfully sunny and it wasn’t long before I’d taken off three layers, enjoying the spring sunshine.
Coastline north of Gwithian
Samphire Island
I was tickled however, to be walk above Sally’s Bottom and Tubby’s Head. This was one of the aspects of the walk I was really looking forward to .. seeing the richness of the language of place names. Today did not disappoint.
It’s not hard to see from the cliff tops why the locals would have given such dastardly names to the rocks and coves below. You’ve got to believe many lives would have been lost, washing up against such rugged, unforgiving terrain.
Sheer cliff tops for most of the day
I think I said earlier that the South West Coast Path is known for its many flights of steps, traversing the many inlets along the way. Well, there were many of them today. They were steep and uneven and caused me to fall in love .. not only with the fabulous views, but with my poles. Without them I suspect I may well have had a tumble.
Vertiginous steps
My trusty poles
The path took me through the seaside villages of Portreath and Porthtowan, where the beaches were deep and surfers were braving the Baltic temperatures.
Portreath
Porthtowan
And then the rain arrived .. it was easy to see coming and I even had time to put on my wet weather gear and cover my rucksack before the first spots fell.
Rain coming from the south
It made for spectacular views ..
Weather
In Porthtowan I stopped for a much needed cuppa. As I sat sipping my tea watching the dozen or so mad surfers, I plotted how I could make the remainder of my day’s journey a little shorter by taking one of the many footpaths across to a B road, leading down to St Agnes. And that’s when I learnt about contours. Thinking I’d found a cute little cut through that would take me a max of ten minutes to walk, I discovered to my peril, that those little lines on the map, so tightly bunched together, signified the most exhausting, most debilitating hour of the day. I WON’T be making the same mistake again!
St Agnes Beacon figured prominently towards the end of the day’s walk. When the enemy ship was spotted approaching the coast during one of the Napoleonic wars, the 24 hour guard would be shaken from his reverie and light a monster fire. The flames acted as a call to arms for many miles around and became known as St Agnes Beacon. The area around St Agnes Head is owned by the National Trust. The headland was used as a light anti-aircraft artillery range in the Second World War and during the Napoleonic war it was a rifle range. Amazingly busy for the serene and peaceful place it is now.
Towards 6pm I reached the village of St Agnes. It had been a very long day and I was so thankful I wasn’t camping for the night. Instead I’m staying at the cosy St Agnes Hotel, just opposite the church. There’s a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc waiting for me behind the bar .. well, at least a couple of glasses are mine. I’m going to sleep well tonight and hope that my calves and hamstrings don’t stage a revolt at the thought of more steps tomorrow.
Black Dog Tails
Sarbi, the Aussie bomb-sniffing dog was awarded the War Dog Operational Medal and the RSPCA’s Purple Cross, its highest award for animal bravery.
Four days in and a fascinating read already. I’m in awe how you are managing to combine walking, writing and drawing and still fit in time for the wine :). What a great start!
Thanks Anna .. the wine facilitates the writing I suspect! x
adventurous day Jules and just beautiful photos.
PS check email from us if you can re dates to join you.
Beck, just checked my outbox and there sits my reply to you, refusing to budge. End of April, beginning of May sounds good! Will be great to have you with me. xx
Am I getting confused between black dogs and blogs or did you take an unauthorised helicopter ride today?
Keh? Explain please!! xx
Well done on such a tough day going up and down those pesky little map-line. History will tell…
You came
You saw
You contoured
You would NOT have made the same mistake, Mr C’zar, I suspect! xx
Hog’s Breath, sir
‘Course!xx
Hi Jules.
A testing day by the sound of it.
St Agnes is still a relatively undiscovered village. We love it.
A coffee on the beach before you move on would be a great plan.
Stein’s Restaurant in “The Basement” at St Petroc’s Hotel we highly recommend when you get to Padstow.
Loving the colourful descriptions of the walk to date.
Tony & Mandy xx
It was certainly long but really very beautiful. You’re right St Agnes is beautiful and I’m very tempted by your idea of a latte on the beach to kick off the day! Thanks for the lovely message. Onwards to Newquay .. xx
Each morning when I wake I look forward to reading of your day’s progress and interpretation of the landscape, but mostly how you feel about it all. I am so happy for you and your walking experience. Fair weather or foul, it is all exciting in the context of this great walk.
Well that’s such a compliment, Marilyn .. coming from one who has completed the adventure AND camped the whole way! Looking out of the window I suspect rather foul weather today! x
What a beautiful stretch of coastal path , reminded me of the Pembrokeshire coastline that I know so well – you took me right there . Thank you 🙏
Ps not only do you draw very well , you write very well too , loving the narrative Jules xxx
Thanks for your kind words, Sioned .. I’m loving putting the blog together in the evenings, in the bar over a glass or two! xx
Jules, what a treat to be able to share those views and experience your walk vicariously. I’ll think of you when I’m huffing and puffing up the headland steps here in Mosman. My concept of “uneven” steps is now forever changed!
Thank you so much! Yesterday really was staggeringly beautiful and kept me buoyed up as I kept finding yet another flight of steps! Bit of a grey old day today so not sure what it’ll be like ..
Sleep tight, sounds like you deserve it. Sounds like another interesting day. Love your sketches! Hope you get to the WWOM, or were you joking?
Thanks Linda. Sadly I was joking about the chopper to the WWOM .. unless Patrick has a surprise up his sleeve!! x
What a long but rewarding day! Long soak in the bath maybe – wine after or you might drift off…?! Overcast here but you’ve had some spectacular and beautiful weather. Loving it. Xx
No bath but the shower was good, followed by a ‘Wednesday wine’. Have you heard of the small, medium or large wine sizes being described as Monday, Wednesday or Friday wines?! St Agnes is such a pretty village, Frannie. You’d love it. x
Loving your commentary, Jules – stay strong!
Rhino Ray
Lovely getting your message this morning, Ray. x
I’m so glad the snow and ice have cleared enough for you to be able to experience the SWCP. OK, so the steps are steep and uneven and my muscle memory responded to your photographs (oh, yes, I remember that section!) but the views are wonderful and make the journey worthwhile. I’m really enjoying reading this blog and finding out little tidbits of information that I didn’t know, as well as your lovely photographs.
On to Newquay today but not before exploring the pretty little village of St Agnes!
Chooks? A word I haven’t come across before, but obvious in meaning in your context, delightful. Are you doing those excellent drawings along the way, and what is the medium? I camped at a farm just north of St. Agnes – from my journal – 18th April 2008:
“The first camp site I went to was not yet open for the season, and I plodded on and did a lot of extra trudging after being
directed to a farmer’s site where I was the sole camper. The farmer was in his eighties and suffering acute arthritis in his
legs, and once again the site was not really open; his shower was not operating and there was no hot water so he declined to
charge to me.”
I’m finding there is real kindness in strangers, Conrad .. as you obviously did too. The drawings are pen and ink on watercolour paper. Glad you like them!
Loving your writing, photos and drawings Jules. A very enjoyable time each day is spent following your trail. Admiration in spades.
Thank you so much Olwyn .. sorry we didn’t get to meet up in Tassie. But we will at some stage! Jx
You are truly inspirational! Your blog is so easy to read and I just want to be there with you.
Great start to your incredible journey……one step at a time. You are becoming my morning read. Xx
Liz, you are a complete darling .. thank you! Would the Pennines suit you to meet up? x
It would….give me the dates?
April 18 to 21 sort of time? Does that work? x
That works very well…….I work at GOSH on Mondays but the 18th is a Wednesday so couldn’t be more perfect. Am already training and will find a few hills to practice going up and down! Will sort out fundraising on your behalf will get rest of details later on……loving your blogs. Xx
Sounds perfect, Liz .. will be fabulous to catch up after all this time! xx
I am so enjoying your blog and your photos are great! I can tell you you’ve got some lovely calf stretching steps to come. Black dog Maisie and I are SO looking forward to joining you xx
Can’t wait to meet Maisie .. will she be up for a photo shoot?! xx
Ha ha, yes contours! They are on the map for good reason. Presumably you had skipped that lesson as a girl guide in favour of wine tasting?
You got it! Far more important to be able to distinguish between Sauv Blanc and Chardonnay .. until you’re faced with an unforeseen cliff face to climb!
Ouch those stairs look very steep – but wow such beautiful scenery! Yes I am also in total awe of the combination of walking, writing and drawing everyday! Loving seeing these updates everyday. Much love Anna
Coming from another artist that means a lot! Thank you. xx