From: Lichfield to Colton
Distance: 12m / 19.2km
Cumulated distance: 449m / 723km
Percentage completed: 43.69
Lichfield was the birthplace of Dr Samuel Johnson. I must say I didn’t know much about the Doc until I consulted Mr Google. Turns out he was a quite phenomenal person, with a photographic memory, a prodigious vocabulary and a brain the size of a planet, which he used to write all manner of literature. He’s been described as ‘arguably the most distinguished man of letters in English history’. We can thank him for the English Dictionary which was used for 150 years, before the Oxford English Dictionary came into circulation. Many people who met him were put off by his tics and odd mannerisms and it turns out he probably had Tourette’s Syndrome. In fact, he was blighted by many afflictions .. tuberculous scrofula, weak eyesight, gout, testicular cancer, deafness, debilitating bouts of depression (which you’ll remember he referred to as ‘his black dog’) and a recurring, crippling lack of funds, which meant it took him decades to get his degree from Oxford and have the opportunity to write, despite his extraordinary acumen.
Samuel Johnson
There are many accounts of Johnson suffering from bouts of depression and what Johnson himself thought might be madness. To overcome these feelings, Johnson tried constantly to involve himself with various activities, but these didn’t seem to help. It’s reported that ‘at one time he strongly entertained thoughts of Suicide’. Boswell, his famous biographer, claimed that Johnson ‘felt himself overwhelmed with an horrible melancholia, with perpetual irritation, fretfulness, and impatience; and with a dejection, gloom, and despair, which made existence misery’. All goes to show that depression and mental illness are no respecters of age, intellect, class, creed or race.
Visiting Lichfield Cathedral on a Sunday, my precious rest day, proved to be perfect timing. As I crossed the bridge over the pond, the bells began to peel, calling worshipers to the afternoon service. The choir was practising ahead of the service and the music filled the nave. I sat absorbed for a good while and then took a look at the 7th century Saxon angel. The detail was intricate and beautifully preserved in parts. I took photos of him but my reflection was so strong that I converted it to black and white.
7th century Angel Gabriel
The choir in full flow
It was a glorious rest day, filled with sleep, gentle walking around Lichfield, supper with my sister and a very necessary deep tissue massage .. thank you to Dan at St John’s House B&B for organising it.
We woke to thick mist this morning. We had breakfast early and shot off to the cathedral to see how it was looking in the dreamy conditions. Very beautiful was the answer.
Cathedral in the mist
Dickensian Lichfield
The mist made everything look mystical .. even the golf course just outside the city. Trees took on other persona and fields of crops looked exquisitely romantic.
16th hole looking magical
Sagrada Famillia lookalike
Field of rapeseed just coming into bloom
For the first five miles we crossed many fields and passed several pubs .. well, actually we did call in at one of them but really just to celebrate it having the same name as a dear friend of ours: The Nelson.
Feeding horses
Being oh so brave .. patting horses
The most accommodating Nelson Inn
Botts Farm Fishing Club
Towards midday we reached Cannock Chase, which for us was always going to be a trip down memory lane. It’s a 26 square mile area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, made up of a mixture of natural deciduous woodland, coniferous plantations, open heathlands and some remnants of early industry, such as coal mining.
Entrance to the Chase
Our parents and grandparents grew up in this part of the world and I too was born here. Walking across the Chase brought back strong memories of bilberrying with my Grandad, cooking up sausages on a tiny primer stove after early morning walks with my dad and all the picnics we had as a family among the bracken and heather. My father used to tell us the story of a favourite uncle of his, who was prone to doing all sorts of impetuous things. One morning he was walking with the family across the Chase and decided, totally unprompted, to walk on to Blackpool .. due north, a hundred miles away. We loved the stories our dad would tell us. He himself must have been full of mischief when growing up and together with his best mucker, Norman, the two would get up to all sorts of larks. One of my favourites was the marble story. The two of them dared each other to put marbles up their noses. But Norman’s must have been bigger .. that’s his nose, not his marble .. as my dad had to go home, nose bulging, to enlist the help of his parents in getting his marble out. No amount of pulling and poking would remove it and so off to hospital they went. The doc took one look and marched my dad off to the hospital kitchens. There, he found the pepper mill, put it under my dad’s nose, whereupon there was a monster sneeze and the marble shot out, full pelt across the room. Case solved.
Just the sight of the bracken and early bilberry plants brought all sorts of memories flooding back. We didn’t have a primer stove to make a brew but Helks had brought a picnic which we ate, sitting on the generous branches of a massive deciduous tree. Kids had hung a rudimentary swing there which we challenged each other to sit the right way on.
Not really supposed to rotate!
Like this .. see?
As we recalled memories, big and small, which had laid dormant for decades, the rain began to fall very softly. No deer crossed our path .. but then neither did they when we were children. It was always the hope and anticipation that they would, which made their existence special. Instead we had buzzards circling overhead, many trees with their fungus to inspect and stepping stones to cross.
Fungi on silver birch tree
Conifer forest
Stepping stones which seemed so much more dangerous to cross when we were little
Happy times
Leaving the Chase for Colton (note the atmospheric perspective, Swampy!)
After leaving the Chase there remained four good miles of walking, which saw us leaving the Heart of England Way (so sorry to be doing this) and moving on to join the Staffordshire Link, which has the ubiquitous Stafford Knot as its emblem. There’s a rather gruesome story behind the knot, which can be found everywhere in the county, on police helmets to iced buns. Supposedly, three convicted criminals who had committed a crime together were due to be executed in Stafford jail. There was an argument over who should be hanged first but the hangman solved the problem by creating a knot which permitted all to be hanged at the same time .. The Stafford Knot. Nice.
Ghoulish Stafford Knot
Black Dog Tails
Nell jumped on her owner’s chest when she was choking and dislodged the piece of chocolate to probably save her life.
What a wonderful special day for you both xx
Thank you, Ils .. it certainly was special. xx
Dear Jules-
What a wonderful time you are having! Living in the present but also reminiscing with your sister about such happy childhood memories. And such stunning pictures. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great journaling. Amely and I look forward to every new report.
Thank you so much, Alex. Your support means a great deal.
Dearest Jules – the fun you are having during this special time with your sister is just shining out of today’s blog! Lichfield looks a beautiful ..city..as it has a cathedral? and your photos are so full of atmosphere. Dr Johnson seems like he had an emotionally stressful life to say the least poor man – the price some pay for genius. Lots of love xx
Thank you so much, Frannie. It’s quite a contrast this morning .. windy and driving rain. Yuk. I was very taken with Doctor Johnson. May even get to read Boswell’s biography of him when I’ve finished the walk. Lots of love, xx
Hey Jules I stumbled across your site today! wow so glad I did, I was googling other stuff and bingo there you are!
wow well done you!
what a great cause and one which is close to a lot of peoples hearts, bless!
I am a Black Dog Rider, hoping you have heard of us we raise awareness of depression and suicide as we ride our motorcycles all over Australia. As well as raising much needed funds for this great cause.
Loved reading your daily diary and will now continue to follow your blogs and campaign
love your pics too!
Great hearing from you, Kellie! Your fund-raising for BDI looks amazing .. as well as the way you’ve been raising awareness. So glad to be in touch and thanks a million for your support .. looking out at the driving rain before starting my 15 mile walk today, it could not have been better timed!
If I had to pick my favourite blog day (so far ) , it would be day 35 , it feels just so … right , on so many levels . It has everything you would expect and much more , the information and interesting findings about Samuel Johnson , the moving visit of Lichfield cathedral , the restorative day , mystical photos that transport me into a 19th century novel , and of course what any mother would love to read and see about her 2 daughters , precious times together bonding and reminiscing . So happy for you and Helen , you will always have that memorable time to cherish , much love always xox
As always, your comment is beautifully written .. I could so imagine you having the same thoughts in years to come about E and M. xx
You are obviously more acquainted with Cannock Chase than I was. I crossed further north from south west to north east and camped on the side of the canal near Bishton about 2km. from your destination at Colton. Cannock Chase was something very special for me, especially as I sort of discovered it for myself, and your vivid description is a welcome reminder. I walked across again in September 2015 from east to west during my Macmillan Way (Boston/Barmouth) walk.
From my LEJOG journal 12th May 2008:
“The day finished on another canal tow path. As I needed water to
camp I hailed a couple on a narrow boat going through a lock and
asked for water. They gave me water but they were not particularly
chatty and I set off down the tow path. I had noticed that the boat was
called “Givry”, and as it came past alongside me I hailed the gent at
the helm and asked him if it was named after the wine; he looked
surprised and called back his confirmation saying that not many
people knew about that, and his whole attitude had changed. He
slowed the boat down to my walking pace and we had quite a chat for
a while. I have always found it very satisfying to find ways of unlocking
the door with reticent people.
I camped on the side of the canal in some rather long grass and had
passing canal boat people waiving to me as they passed. Black slugs crawled up the outside of the tent from the long grass on a periodic basis and I would bat them off from the inside – this phenomenon was repeated on several other occasions during my walk.”
By the way I think you are referring to the classic Primus stove which we used on our First Class Journey in the Scouts, made of solid brass and very heavy but formidable producers of heat with a welcome roar that always brightened the spirits.
I love all the minute detail of your journal, Conrad. Glad that you enjoyed the Chase .. very special to my sister and me.
Dearest Jules,
With great admiration and enthusiasm we follow your blog. it’s really incredible what you’re taking on! The shoes with mud and soaked, blisters on our feet and every day we get such great reports and especially I love your drawings.A big hug from the Austrian mountains, Veronika
Veronika, Axel .. lovely getting your message! I think Austria would be a wonderful place to do a similar walk! xx