From: Biggin to Miller’s Dale
Distance: 12m / 19.3km
Cumulated distance: 495m / 797km
Percentage completed: 41.8
There was no let up in the fog this morning. In fact it was a good deal gloomier than yesterday, as it dawned with rain. All rather disappointing.
17th century Biggin Hall .. my stop-over last night
Even the daffs remaining closed, waiting for more clement weather
I reconnected with the Tissington Trail which, after a couple of miles, became the Pennine Bridleway. The Bridleway is a relatively new National Trail which runs roughly parallel with its more challenging, long-established partner, the Pennine Way. It’s being constructed in stages and at the moment runs 213 miles through the Peaks and the Dales. I was thrilled to be reunited with the acorn logo of a National Trail. Footpaths were signposted off the Bridleway to intriguing sounding places such as Custard Field Farm and Bull-i’-th’-Thorn. None of them could I see, so they remained intriguing, without reality spoiling the imagination.
Stiles to intriguing sounding places
Derelict crumbling farm buildings along the way
The temperature plummeted to a chilly 3 degrees and the wind seemed intent on slapping me in the face with my plastic map holder. At one stage, as I tried to take a photo, I pressed the selfie icon instead and only then realised how eccentric I looked ..
Just call me Scott of the Antarctic
Close to Hartington on the Bridleway there is an old signal box. Beside it is a small plaque with a photo of how the box looked in the 1950s, when steam trains still pulled into the station, bringing day-trippers from all over the country to walk the beautiful Peak District.
Hartington Station ..
.. and how it used to look
Just before the segway of Tissington into Pennine Bridleway, I was convinced I’d seen a mirage. There on the side of the path was a bicycle hire centre, offering refreshments and public conveniences. I had been fantasising about a good latte .. and there was my dream come true! I walked into the building and went confidently to order a coffee and maybe a Bakewell Tart. ‘Sorry. Cafe’s closed .. weather’s too bad’. Booh.
Cafe without coffee
I trudged on. There were a few brave cyclists and walkers along the way but none of us was prepared to stop for a chat. Eventually I went off-piste and stopped at The Duke of York pub in the hamlet of Pomeroy. Apparently it’s been a hostelry for centuries and if I were excited about ale, would have been very happy to find that the beer on tap is sourced from the renowned brewery, Robinson’s Ales. As it was, the coffee was more than adequate.
The Duke of York
A short distance out of Pomeroy the PBW joined forces with the Midshire’s Way and I came to the village of Chelmorton. It’s the highest village in Derbyshire and at 1209 feet above sea-level, is possibly the highest parish in the whole of England. It’s affectionately known as the ‘mountain village’. The village has several other claims to fame but I have to say my favourite is the name of the delightful stream: The Illy Willy Water. It provides a source of pure water which was most likely the reason for the early Bronze Age settlers making Chelmorton their home. Nowadays, it’s piped underground so sadly I can’t pose, willy nilly, for a photo next to the Illy Willy.
Approaching Chelmorton, I think
There’s evidence from the ancient field system (which the village is internationally famous for among agriculturalists), that Celts, Saxons and Normans also lived in the village. It blows your mind sometimes to think about all the lives that have spun across the centuries in one place. The 17th century Church Inn is a big part of the community. In its previous life as The Blacksmith’s Arms, the blacksmith himself, who had his forge behind the pub, was also the landlord .. as well as its best customer, if folklore is to be believed.
The ‘street’ village is distinctively made up mainly of white limestone cottages with gritstone features. No doubt the limestone was mined locally and the community of houses is a visible reminder of its surrounding geology. It’s one of the things that I love about this country .. the character of the counties being hewed by their natural environment. Think Bath and its stone, the Cotswolds and its honeyed cottages and Cornwall with its white-washed farmhouses.
Limestone houses
At the close of day I reached the riverside Anglers Rest in Millers Dale, where I was hooking up with Paul and my taxi to return home .. I have a wedding to go to tomorrow and am very, very excited at the thought of dressing up in something colourful and not decorated in mud. See you soon!
Anglers Rest, Millers Dale
Black Dog Tails
Daisy brings comfort to patients on her hospital visits. Check out her story by clicking on the picture.
I can see how hazardous it is navigating through the traffic in the car park to get to the Duke of York
Looking a tad chilly – enjoy the wedding warmth!
Yes, I had the sole attention of the barmaid!
Hi Jules, I loved the misty moisty photos and also interested in PBW. The route looks very clear. I think you are wise not to tackle PW on your own. All your writing of the history is really great to read and I can empathise with the closed cafe! Moving up the map and before you know it you will be in Scotland and will have walked the length of England. How about that? So great. xx
Hi Marilyn, I’m slowly building up to the PW! I move over to it next week, once the mist has moved aside and allowed spring to burst forth! xx
You really are not having any luck with the English weather, Jules! As an ex-Pom, I can only apologise on behalf of the welcome it has given you. Glad that the welcome of hostelries and people has been warmer! Keep on plodding!
People have indeed been incredibly warm and kind and generous. Despite the weather it’s been a joy. Thanks so much for the message.
Hi Jules – gosh the days are accumulating aren’t they? Wherever I go I give people your blog particulars – yesterday it was John and Seamus in Framemart on Parramatta Road – getting the rabbits framed for haha applying for the Sulman! And I Am constantly delighted by ‘We can still pluck yew’! So glad a wedding awaits. Lots of love xx
Oooh! That sounds so exciting .. please, please send me a photo of the finished piece. Sure it’s a masterpiece. xx
Frannie , just picking up on your comment and noticing you are mentioning a framer on Parramatta road … Frameart.. any good ? would you recommend them ? (sophiendalgleish@gmail.com ) .. Best of luck with the sulman , am sure your rabbits are exquisite ! Must run + Don’t want to monopolise Jules’s blog xx
Glad to be the messenger to such good mates. xx
Jules, your photos have made it abundantly clear why the UK countryside is so green! I so admire your perseverance in this weather and the muddy tracks. We can’t understand how you have the energy at the end of the day to put together these terrific blog posts that include such lovely photos as well as a sketch…well done!
I love writing the blog and compiling the photos, Silvia. Some of the drawings were done before-hand, I have to admit though. Thank you for your continuing messages. x
Have a fun day tomorrow Jules , you deserve it , enjoy the wedding and please treat us to a photo of you in a mud free attire xox
Wonderful wedding yesterday .. no-one was wearing mud! Great, great fun. xx
Hi Jules, It is a great treat to see the countryside through your artistic eyes. I’m enjoying this armchair journey. Thank you for doing all the work. Love Juliet
Truly, it is my pleasure! xx
Our routes have diverged again. I’m very sorry to read that you had such dire weather through Dovedale et al – It wouldn’t be fair to quote from my eulogising. You seem to be handling poor weather well and philosophically, and I’m sure you’re up to the Pennine Way – it is a great walk and you will be fine. Having walked it before I routed my LEJOG over the gritstone edges via Hathersage, Hebden Bridge and then Wharfedale – I’m not sure if we will coincide again and I don’t want to spoil my enjoyment of your journey by looking ahead at your itinerary. I do hope that you get some better weather but as I write this Friday morning it is endless downpour here in south Cumbria.
Spring has come to the Cotswolds, so I’m hopeful it will be making its way north very soon. V much looking forward to the Pennine Way. How lucky you are to live in Cumbria. One of my favourite places in the entire world.
Just love your photos – they are so atmospheric, feel as if we are with you
… oohh chilly mist and slushy mud … warm pubs and AGAs may seem like an answer but hear the howls of the black dogs as they call you onwards and upwards into Bonnie Scotland!
Hang in there, we are in awe, we are cheering you on
PS Mummy says don’t even think of bringing those muddy boots inside!
Stay firmly by the AGA, puppies! Although I do hear rumours that spring is around the corner .. xx
Not sure it is Scott of the Antarctic, looks more like you are posing as a postbox… and are you sure that you have cleaned the camera lens, looks a little grubby… Anyway, we’ve got a wedding to go to!!
And what a wedding it was!! One of the best. xx
Hi Jules, I’m so interested in the names of the places you go to – in our suburb of Carine, we have a Chelmorton Loop, which I’m sure is after the village you visited. Bradbourne Drive and even Tibshelf Place are all English!
Just wondering if you ever got the card I sent you to Malt House? Lindy xxx
I got your gorgeous card yesterday, Lindy when I came back home. Very sweet of you and beautifully worded .. as always. Thank you. xx
Jules
I woke up this morning thinking of you and your great walk…I am both proud of you and pleased for you. The trail stories are brilliant – the vivid pictures your words paint make me feel that I am walking alongside you. It’s fantastic – thanks.
Although I know the walk must be desperately tough on a number of fronts, reading your insights, stories and photos somehow allows me to escape into a different world for a few minutes…which I really appreciate.
Anyway, I finally thought I should actually communicate to tell you that Sue and I are thinking of you and how much we both envy and admire what you are doing. Go girl!!!
Much love
John xxx
John, thank you for your beautifully worded message. I really am having the time of my life! I so appreciate yours and Sue’s support .. in foggy times I am so buoyed up by such messages. With love, Jx
Hi Jules, the fog and mud are becoming a little too familiar I fear, although the mist does make for wonderfully atmospheric photos, I imagine you would prefer some clear air and open vistas! Love the stone stile and mossy walls. Enjoy your time away from the mud. Spring must be just around the next corner surely.
I hear strong rumours, Olwyn that spring is on its way next week! Not before time. x