From: Littleworth to Hebden Bridge
Distance: 10m / 16km
Cumulated distance: 556m / 985km
Percentage completed: 54
Leaving the piece of Andalusia in the Peaks behind, I headed down the road to find the Rochdale Canal. Unusually there was a choice of three routes today, all ending up in Hebden Bridge, where my bed for the night is. The first option was the Rochdale Canal. Or I could have climbed up to the Pennine Way and forged my way across the moors. Or there was the option to sit on the fence and take the Pennine Bridleway which charges straight through the middle. I knew that in a few days I’d be joining the Pennine Way for a fortnight, so I decided to take advantage of life’s rich tapestry and walk the towpath.
Over breakfast I chatted to the owner of Rake’s Tapas and discovered some pretty amazing facts about the hotel-come-tapas bar. Apparently, it’s the second oldest building in Lancashire, the oldest being next door, up the hill. The front door of the building was chiselled to accommodate Cromwell’s Roundheads when they came in thirsty for a tankard of mead. Clearly they were usually parched as the doorway allowed them to leave their helmets on their heads!
Terrible photo but you can see how a Roundhead could come in for his beer without removing his helmet
Tree trunk beam in my bedroom
The OLDEST house in Lancashire, where Cromwell himself stayed
I have to admit to there being another reason for my choice in walking the Rochdale Canal. There are a dismayingly large number of footpaths which abound on today’s map and I could well foresee myself getting lost. The beauty of following a canal is that you simply can’t lose your way. Decision made. This particular canal must have forged such a good route that there is both a railway line and an A road which run parallel with it. I’ve always loved being able to see the four forms of transport running together. It’s like being able to see the progress of forward motion over the centuries … from feet to barge to train to car.
Train, road and canal side by side
The Rochdale Canal is 32 miles long and has 91 locks along the way from Manchester to Sowerby Bridge. It was built in 1804 and was the first trans-Pennine route, built after much local wrangling about cost and route. The canal system in the UK played a vital role in enabling the Industrial Revolution. You have to remember that until the early 19th century, if you wanted to move a bunch of stuff, you’d have to use packhorses and they had only medieval mud tracks along which to stumble. Having the first nationwide canal network meant that the UK could transport cotton, coal, whatever much faster AND much more safely than any other country. Think Josiah Wedgwood, transporting all that fragile china … canals were the making of his business. The canal boats could carry thirty tons at a time with only one horse pulling. That’s more than ten times the amount of cargo per horse that was possible with a cart. Because of this huge increase in supply, the Bridgewater Canal for example, reduced the price of coal in Manchester by nearly two-thirds within just a year of its opening. Phenomenal.
Rochdale Canal
But of course, nothing is so constant as change. By the second half of the 19th century, many canals were increasingly owned by railway companies or competing with them. Train speeds left canals a very poor second option for shifting anything, including of course, the general public. ‘Canal mania’ was dying a death.
Derelict factory
Shift forward several decades to find that the canals of Britain have recently enjoyed a reincarnation and have become a major leisure destination, for those wanting a lazy, messing around on the river sort of holiday. Even today, when the weather was pretty grim, there were several narrow boats out enjoying a leisurely time.
Aussies enjoying the canal
All along the way there are reminders of England’s industrial past .. mills, factories, warehouses .. but these are framed by the green hills and escarpments of Calderdale and the Pennine Hills.
Background hills. Any idea what a ‘Gongoozler’ is anyone?
It was my great fortune to get chatting to some of the narrow boat holiday-makers this morning. Turned out they were from Jervis Bay and Orange in NSW Australia! They’d done their lunch stop homework and gave me the hot tip of calling in at Walsden for fish and chips at Grandma Pollard’s, the best chippy in the Pennines. I thought I might give it a try, calling in at the Post Office on the way to send a bundle of maps home. Chatting to the postmaster and other customers they all endorsed it was a great spot but advised I get a move on before the ‘dinner-time rush’ began .. it was only 10.45am and the chippy was only a five minute walk away!
Well, it turned out to be one of the biggest delights of my journey. The freshly caught haddock and chips were delicious. But it was the warmth of the place with Jim Reaves playing, the avid customers and Tony, the owner who all made it such a heart-warming experience. All along the walls are photos of people who have visited the cafe, including celebrities and local heroes. I had my photo taken with Tony ..
Such a treat ..
.. and then he offered to donate a voucher for Walking The Black Dog! I couldn’t think who of anyone who might be able to cash it in but I’d enjoyed a terrific conversation with the lovely couple on the adjacent table, so we agreed they would be the ideal recipients .. they’ve been coming once a month to Ma Pollard’s for years. The lady’s name was Barbara Woodhouse (even though she had no dogs with her) and her husband, at the age of 84 had climbed Hellvelyn .. doubt I could do it now! Whenever you find yourself in Walsden make sure you join the queue and get your fish and chips at Grandma Pollard’s http://www.grandmapollards.co.uk/home/4547823106
Lovely Barbara Woodhouse
The peace of the canal today was frequently disturbed by the territory wars going on between various geese and ducks. I watched countless battles between defensive drakes, who had ducks sitting on bank-side nests. There was one particular couple of Canada Geese who were going completely spare as their nest had been usurped by a Muscovy Duck.
Expectant parents getting frantic ..
.. and eventually chasing him/her off
And it wasn’t only ducks and geese who were getting in on the action. At one point I had a serious feeling of discombobulation when I turned a corner and found emus on the bank.
Emus .. really??
My destination for the day was Hebden Bridge. It’s a delightful, traditional looking market town. And yes, it is delightful but it’s anything but traditional. Hebden Bridge is the so-called ‘lesbian capital of the UK’. As the mills in the north began shutting down in the ‘70s, Hebden Bridge’s mills became home to hippies who had creative skills .. writing, painting, crafts and music. The town was thankfully a liberal-thinking place and the scene developed further, attracting and nurturing visitors who became residents. The town’s welcoming attitude seemed to go hand-in-hand with being considerably more bohemian than a typical market town and over time this naturally extended to the gay community. And so we have Yorkshire’s rather wonderful answer to San Francisco. As one resident put it, ‘Here you see lesbians everywhere; it’s like having an extended family which, considering all of us have had to move away from our families to find somewhere we could be accepted, is a wonderful feeling.’
Coming into Hebden Bridge
Black Dog Tails
Kuro is Tanya’s right hand man. She has MS and her black dog hero helps her in a zillion ways to lead as normal a life as possible. Tanya says, ‘Even when I smile at him I usually get a tail wag. However, if I am having a good belly laugh, his whole bum gets wagging. Kuro is one of the best presents I have ever received’.
Hi Jules, well now I am in the same time zone as you and have caught up on your progress. I particularly love the Peak District photos of moody skies over rough ground. The north has a special atmosphere, I think. Lucky you to be walking there. I think I agree with your friend that you should return those boots. Mine were leather Scarpa boots and I wore them walking for years and years after the walk. I feel sure I could have walked back to Lands End and they would still have been good. xx
Welcome back, Marilyn!It’s nice to know you’re not far away. I will definitely take the boots back to Kent Street, when I return to Sydney. Enjoy your holiday. xx
I walked that exact section of the canal a few weeks back as part of a South Pennine Ring so I know the answer – ‘a gongoozler is a person who likes watching activity on the canals without owning a boat’ I count myself as one.
When you are home get yourself a copy of View from the Bridge by John Morrison, a humorous and incisive take on life in Hebden Bridge. You’ll love it.
Meant to say welcome to the North.
John, always love hearing from you. I LOVE that definition of a ‘gongoozler’ .. sure there must be a whole host of words for people who vicariously enjoy activities like that. There’d be a lot of fun inventing the words. Thanks for the John Morrison suggestion. I was very taken with Hebden Bridge so will definitely read it. Thanks for the welcome .. I feel very welcomed!
Granma Pollards sounds wonderful, and Tony and Barbara real ‘salt of the earth’ people..rather appropriate for a fish and chip shop. The heart warming stories make your journey so special, there are some really lovely people out there! Quite déjà vue walking along the canal I should think?! Xxx
There are so many heart-warming, human interest stories .. people have been so generous and kind along the way. Quite restores belief in humankind. xx
Another fascinating day Jules – such a joy to read your story. You seem to be right at home! Lots of love xx
The Pennines are a real treat .. seen photos of the Way for years and it was amazing to actually reach it. Felt I should be getting on my knees and kissing the ground! xx
Jules-
You are more than half way!! Fantastic effort through mud, rain, snow… and surprise visits from Patrick! Amely and I are both enjoying your blog every day. Today’s made me envious. Sounds like the perfect day with level walks, lots of life on the water (both wildlife and the Aussies) and a great fish and chips to top it off. Looks like spring has broken through and you have a spring in your step. Wonderful!
I believe there’s going to be a record 26 degrees tomorrow .. I’ll have to crack open the factor 50! Thoroughly enjoying the journey and the rich variety it’s throwing at my feet! Thank you for your continued messages. Always so good to receive. x
Another great account of a special day! Your blogs are always so interesting to read. Keep on plodding!
Plodding with a spring!
Congratulations Jules on your onward journey past the half way mark. No mean feat given the snow, mud and fog. Liked your photos of Lancashire. My great grandmother grew up in Lancashire and came to Australia in 1900 to improve her (chest) health. She never returned. I catch up with your blog as often as possible. Well done!
Jen .. lovely hearing from you. Thank you for your kind comments. xx
I love seeing countries making good use of their canals to attract tourism , like cities with their rivers , quite romantic I find …
Am so glad you have joined the celebrity photo board at Grandma Pollard’s , Tony will have another wonderful story to share with guests about that brave English lady who came all the way from Sydney to walk across the UK with a special detour to sample his fish’n chips 🙂 xx
Always so much going on when you walk the towpath of a canal. And Tony’s was really a highlight of the whole walk! xx
I am glad to hear that the canal led your way for a day. Maybe you could adopt the writer Kim Mahood’s perspective on her wonderful book about Aboriginal life in the Tanami desert with the apt title “Position Doubtful”:
“I have always loved maps: the way they sit between drawing and writing, incorporating both; the particularity of detail; the way place is rendered both accessible and mysterious; the suggestion of stories and journeys. The true map doesn´t take you to where you imagine it will. It´s a starting point into the unknown, a nod towards having a plan. It allows you to step out and make it up as you go. A good map is a work in progress. You can create a dialogue between language and place, you can move things around until some fortuitous arrangement detonates a run of associations that takes you somewhere you didn´t know you could go.”
Luckily, the fish & chips entered your map.
That intrigued me and made me smile too! Thank you for sending. I love maps .. especially as I get a bit better at reading them! xx
Loved the canals and have always wanted to do a narrow boat holiday – maybe next year?! Hope the feet are holding up in the new boots. Keep going your are doing fabulously! Xx
I’d be very happy to walk along side your narrow boat, Kate! the new boots are just fantastic .. much better than the old ones, relieved to say. xx