From: Drymen to Rowardennan
Distance: 15.5m / 24.8km
Cumulated distance: 917m / 1476km
Percentage completed: 77.6
There was a gradual climb out of Drymen through Garadhban Forest. There were glimpses of Loch Lomond through the trees and at one stage two roe deer leapt across the path in front of us, high into the air. The enormous ladder stiles over the tall fences we’d seen earlier now made sense .. the deer in these parts were pretty talented at jumping!
Loch Lomond glimpses
However, far more impressive in the foot department was Jimmy. As we were striding out down the lane, along came a man wearing no shoes, a guitar on his back and a big Aussie smile on his face. Meet Jimmy from Brisbane who is currently walking barefoot from Scotland to Spain. He’d started his personal quest in Fort William. When my sister asked if he’d climbed Ben Nevis the look on his face belied just how mad he thought the question was. ‘Nah mate .. it’s bloody snowing up there’.
Jimmy from Brizzy
My sister and I were really excited about the wildlife we might get to see over the next few days. If you believe Mr Google the following might just make an appearance: red squirrels, red deer and even wild cat, if we’re super lucky. And the birds .. there should be plenty of beauties for us: black grouse, buzzard, golden eagle and osprey. But for the time being it was the views which took centre-stage ..
Across to the largest loch in Scotland, in fact the largest lake in UK
At some point we missed the turn off for the low road and found ourselves heading up Conic Hill on the high road. And while I could have berated my sister for her map-reading, it actually turned out to be a very fine mistake with wonderful views.
Up Conic Hill
Views, just like the picture on the top of the shortbread tin that we used to store buttons in at home. Totally kitsch and staggeringly breath-taking. The string of islands that we could see from this elevation lie along the Highland Boundary Fault, spreading like giant stepping stones to the far shore. There are thirty or so of them on the whole stretch of water.
Loch Lomond from the high road
Helks not regretting the mistake
It’s extraordinary how there’s always someone walking slower or faster than you .. or in yesterday’s case, carrying a bicycle uphill faster than you. This young woman strode past us with her bike on her back and as we eventually reached the top of the hill she came careening past us downhill, at goodness knows how many miles per hour ..
Bike on her back
Loch Lomand is 24 miles long and and we followed it closely all day, although oftentimes it was hidden by the loch-side trees. It’s the largest inland freshwater lake in the UK and considered one of the country’s most romantic. It’s difficult not to find yourself humming the iconic tune written about the place, as you walk its shores.
Conic Hill
Coming down to the water
John Muir must have stood and looked at this view. I love the quote attributed to him: “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul.” No wonder he became the father of national parks.
The Loch
While the view fed our soul our sights were set on The Oak Tree Inn to feed our tummies. It’s in the little village of Balmaha, which while besieged by tourists, remains picturesque. The hostelry has twice won the title of ‘Scotland’s Best Independent Pub’, so we had high hopes. The Cullen Skink .. a Scottish soup made with smoked fish, potatoes and cream .. was perfect. We wondered why we hadn’t opted to stay the night there to carry on enjoying the pub’s hospitality. But there were several miles to go before we could stop for the day, so we gulped back an espresso and hauled on our rucksacks.
As we headed off to rejoin the Way we came across the life-size bronze sculpture of a friendly looking chap in a bobble hat. I’d not heard of the him but apparently it’s a statue of Tom Weir, a popular countryside writer, broadcaster and the presenter of Weir’s Way from 1976 to 1987. Hugely popular in Scotland, he’s been favourably likened to John Muir. He was seldom seen without his red scarf and woollen hat with its white bobble.
Helks and I with the local celebrity
We started the second half of the walk rather late on in the day .. 3pm to be precise. I’d had a podiatrist’s appointment early on in the day and we’d taken longer than anticipated climbing to the top of Conic Hill, rather than skirting around it. From Balmaha the route was very pretty but it incorporated a lot of ups and downs and many wiggles, which meant we didn’t reach our destination, the Rowardennan Youth Hostel until 7.45 that evening. It was a hot day and it seemed that the Scots had decided to eschew the Royal Wedding in favour of barbies and frisby on the beach. Who could blame them.
Scots at play
Although no-one wanted to play with Millie!
The loch shore
The route tripped in and out of woodland and across the gritty beaches of the loch. As the day grew longer the shadows extended and the light became more beautiful.
Bluebell woods
Lime green woodland
Kayaks lined up for tomorrow ..
Extending shadows
The fifteen mile walk seemed to go on and on forever. The scenery was glorious but we worked out that between us we only really had one fully-functioning body .. my left foot and leg, hands and back were pretty suspect while Helks’ knees and neck were definitely in need of a doctor’s attention. It felt cruel that the turn off for the youth hostel was a full mile from the actual hostel itself. We fairly collapsed into the reception of what turned out to be an establishment run on Faulty Towers guidelines. It’s elegant exterior was not at all a true reflection of what lay inside. We judged ourselves pretty lucky to end up with beds for the night that hadn’t been given away prematurely to other guests.
Evening view from the hostel
I’m exceedingly grateful to my sister, Helen Prytherch, for taking over the job of drawing while she’s with me walking The West Highland Way.
Black Dog Tails
Missed the 3/4 mark yesterday Jules after eagerly anticipating it. I wonder how you feel about the fact that we’re all in countdown mode until the end. Or are you? Pretty sure you feel the “we” of all this as we wait for you to appear in our IN boxes and follow your day with delight. Those blue markers snaking their way up and up the map. It’s a thrill to think of how far you’ve gone. Hats off again to you dear Jules!
Your feet and the bare feet of Jimmy from Brizzy are both concerning and to end up at Fawltey Towers. Oh dear. But with images of Loch Lomond dancing in your heads! Delightful.
Take care both of you, Jo
Jo, you do write so beautifully .. have you thought of blogging? I think you’d be wonderful at it. Thank you for your concern .. for both me and Jimmy, although I think it’s his feet who are more in need of your sympathy! xx
Hi Jules. I watched the Windsor wedding and thought of you. I thought you were a princess on your wedding day. Now you are walking the whole length of you country even as you live in Australia: a fairy tale ending to your royal wedding. (We are all so proud of you and your epic adventure.) With love, Juliet
You always have had a beautiful way with words, Baby G! Thank you. xx
Morning Jules and Helks from a beautiful sunny autumn morning in Sydney. Just run the dog on the beach and collected a bag full of plastic flotsam and now reading your blog with a coffee before starting the week. About 5 years ago we all stayed st that youth hostel on Lich Lonand. You are right … about the great views! I just love the Jon Muir quote which shame on me I have never read. I plan to put it up. I hope between you you can keep legs moving. Sending you both virtual foot, leg and back massagesxxx
Virtual is good .. real would be so much better! Sending love from a very sunny Scotland. xx
3/4 of this extraordinary expedition done ! Bravo ! A true feat. And so special to have Helen by your side . Not long now Jules . On a plane tonight , will be reading day 72 in your time zone , big hugs xox
Trying to keep the good weather lasting over to the Great Glen Way, my friend! xx
It’s so lovely that you have more time with Helks Jules – memories together. And such beauty!! Bluebells and lime leaves – utter bliss! Look after yourselves. Just off this morning to visit your ‘Day 16’…Ilfracombe for the week with the hardcore school friends for our 60th anniversary!! Will be sharing this amazing journey with them. Lots of love xx
Can only imagine the mischief you’ll be getting up to Frannie! Have a wonderful time with wonderful old friends. xx
I think our routes will have parted from Drymen now until John ‘o Groats, but here is part of my journal from the next day after Drymen. I had been using Andy Robinson’s excellent Cicerone Press guide: The End to End Trail with frequent variations of my own , and it came back into use further north.
“I saw Drymen as a major staging post on my walk because it marked the start of The Highlands, and I would depart from the guide to follow my own route as far as Loch Lochy when I would rejoin the guide. My route would prove to me that I could successfully back-pack for several days across the wild Scottish glens and I was looking forward to this, although I would initially be going through fairly civilised country until I got to Killin.
I walked on the road to Aberfoyle then took a high level forest track on the eastern side of the glen with terrific views across
to the southern side of the Crianlarich Munros.
At Kilmahog there was nowhere to camp and I found a b and b (Bridgend cottage). The lady was just coming out of the drive
in her car. She told me she would have to charge me £40 for a double room if I stayed. I tried very hard to haggle with her
but she wouldn’t budge and I had to accept. I told her she was a hard woman. Later I found she was a decent sort, just a
good business woman. I asked her if she’d minded me haggling, and she said not and that she would have done just the
same in my place! I went to the Lade Inn for a meal where they brew their own excellent draught beer, but for the last couple of days I had suffered from an upset stomach and was not able to enjoy this to the full.”
So many stories and reminiscences .. so glad you kept a diary, Conrad.
Wow, Jules! What an amazing journey you’re having. The photos are great and I love your drawings from each day. I’m looking forward to mine! Big hugs xxx
Thanks so much, Jane .. hope you’ve had a fab time in London. Patrick said it was a stellar meeting. xx
Hi Jules, what a beautiful landscape you are passing through and the weather is lovely. So pleased that your are feeling positive again and hope that the aches and pains soon disappear. The end is certainly in your sights now and I think, from what I remember, that you have walking pals until JOG. I am looking forward to the photos of this section and the GGW as we walked through the Cairngorms and I have not walked those paths. I believe it is stunning. xx
The last few days have been spectacular, Marilyn. You would adore it. xx
Hey auntie!
Just wanted to say I’m very proud of you, you have come so far! I heard you saw roe deer the other day, they are gorgeous aren’t they? Red deer are my personal favourite though so I hope you get to see them. You will be very lucky to see a wild cat, they are notoriously shy, although there is also the possibility of pine martins and crossbills so keep your eyes peeled for them too! They have also reintroduced the beaver so maybe if some of their territories are on your route you could get lucky!
Over the last day or so I have found myself reflecting on the impact that mental illness can have; not just on the person suffering, but those around them. If some of my friends had really given in to their defence mechanism gone berserk (because that’s what depression, anxiety and dissociation really are) I wouldn’t even have met them, and my life would lack more wonderful people.
I’m proud of you for motivating yourself to channel your experiences into something that can make a positive difference to others, because I know it can be hard to see past yourself when you are going through any sort of “mental challenge”. I hope the walk is benefitting you too.
Anyways, finished my little ramble about what’s on my mind at the moment, hope you liked it!
Lots of love to you and Mum
Amber ⭐️
Darling Amber .. what a beautiful and thought-provoking message to receive. You’re so sweet to have written it when I know you have a lot on your plate at the moment with A levels. Take care of yourself and enjoy your farewell to your school days tomorrow. All my love always xx