From: Bude to Hartland Quay
Distance: 15.5m / 24.8km
Cumulated distance: 129.2m / 232.8km
Percentage completed: 14.07
Today I had to say goodbye to my companions, Alex and Maisie. I had such a lovely time staying with them .. eating Alex’s delicious cooking, enjoying conversations from the serious to the frivolous and revelling in cuddles with Maisie, one of the sweetest and busiest little black dogs I’ve ever met. On Monday during our 13km walk her Fit Bark showed at the end of the day, that she had clocked up an impressive 39km, with her industrious racing around! I doubt there was a rabbit hole that was left unchecked that day!
St Genny’s church
On my rest day Alex took me up to see Genny’s Norman Church. We’d been just about able to see it through the mist from the Coast Path on Monday, as we walked to Bude. It has the most enchanting churchyard, with wildflowers and umpteen types of lichen, which are famous for their rarity. Many of the gravestones are covered in its sage green crispiness and there were carpets of primroses, crocus and daffodils. Being so close to the ocean it’s not too surprising that many of the stones are inscribed with anchors, one dedicated to a Swedish captain and his crew, who were all ship-wrecked at Crackington Haven in the nineteenth century. The serenity in the churchyard was palpable.
Lichen-laden gravestones
Crocus
For centuries Cornwall’s rugged coastline was a haven for wreckers and smugglers. The darkly secretive activities reached a peak in the 18th century. Ordinary folk and even the clergy, seized the opportunity to supplement their meagre earnings by plundering wrecked ships and smuggling. Although much is made in TV dramas about Cornish Wreckers, there’s no evidence to suggest that men did actually lure ships onto the rocks, using lamps or fires. Given the frequency of ships being wrecked by natural means, there was no need anyway. Most vessels that were wrecked close enough to shore would have not only its cargo removed, but every last saleable item on the ship too, right down to the timber and sails.
The reason smuggling reached its peak in the 18th century was simple. The Continental wars meant there was a shortage of able-bodied men for home service and that, together with official corruption meant that smugglers could do pretty much as they liked. Smuggling jobs would be conducted in open defiance of the Law. Kipling’s lyrics in ‘The Smugglers’ Song’ goes like this: ‘Them that ask no questions isn’t told a lie. Watch the wall, my darling, while the gentlemen go by’. It alludes to the fact that smugglers got the locals to turn away from passing looters so that they could truthfully say if questioned by the Law, that they ‘didn’t know nuffink’.
My rest day was a beautiful sunny day. We ate outside at the pub and there was a glorious sunset to end the day.
Crackington Haven at sunset
Today however, was a whole different story. Gales and lashing rain greeted me as my walk got underway from Bude. I put on all my wet weather gear and prepared to do battle.
No takers for the beach huts today ..
.. nor the outdoor ocean pool
Wet stone beaches
Very evident Crackington Formation
Today I reached my first significant milestone as I crossed counties, from Cornwall into Devon. It felt exciting to have made such progress. Somewhere I read that Devon ‘is a delicious county, benignly bringing joy to all those who live in it, visit it or retire to it. It has cider, smugglers, clotted cream, coast on two sides … what’s not to like? It’s a softer version of Cornwall’.
Leaving the Cornish chough for Devon’s galleon
I did not see this soft side today. I was batted from pillar to post as I tried to make my way along the South West Coast Path, not meeting a single other person all day. Once I arrived at the turn off for Morwenstow, I decided enough was enough and headed inland to the 13th century Bush Inn www.thebushinnmorwenstow.com. I could not have had a warmer welcome as I bowled in, looking like a drowned rat. The ladies of Bush Inn urged me to the open fire, with wonderful words of praise and encouragement for my endeavour. They donated generously to SANE and then introduced me to their sweetest little pup .. Treacle. She’s a 12 week old black and tan miniature dachshund. Otto, you would adore her!
Cuddles with Treacle
Lunch was delicious and I was reluctant to leave the cosy fireside for the driving rain and gusting wind outside .. but there was no choice but to go on, so that I could get to my bed for the night in Hartland Quay. I decided to leave the Coast Path and make my way using various lanes and inland footpaths. It was a rewarding decision as I came to walk through Marsland Valley, a pocket of land that nestles in a steep-sided valley on the border between Devon and Cornwall. It’s full of gnarled, twisted oaks .. home to a plethora of birds and wild animals. Christopher Cadbury of the big chocolate family, bought the land to save it as a refuge for wildlife. After days of coastal walking it felt almost mystical to be walking in the woodland.
Lichen clad walls ..
.. and primroses clinging to wooded banks
After the quiet interlude in the woods it was time to return to the Coast Path, for the last three miles of the day. And that’s where I made my mistake. The South West Coast Path signposted that I should go into the valley, which was so muddy I could see it taking me till Christmas to get there. Instead I chose the ‘Cliff Path Footpath’, which would take me to Hartland Quay directly.
I took few photos of this stretch. I was convinced that my phone would be blown away .. along with me. When I was planning this walk last year, one of the hopes I had for it was that it would force me to dig deep. Well, on day twelve it certainly did. I found myself on a knife-edge cliff, up high with a slippery path and gusting gale winds. I was truly terrified .. heart beating sixteen to the dozen, forced to talk out loud to myself so that I would get safely to the other side. Sitting in the bar writing this it all feels rather surreal but I can also say that it puts a smile on my face to know that I did it.
The landscape around Hartland Quay is staggeringly dramatic. I wish I could show you photos of it. But my phone ran out of juice and the thought of stopping in the wind and rain to plug it in to my portable charger would have been just .. silly. I’ll take more tomorrow morning when I’ve had a good night’s sleep.
A million thanks to all of you lovely subscribers who have been sending through such encouraging messages .. they really do the trick! x
Black Dog Tails
Little Tol Taylor was supported through his leukaemia by Atraya, the gentle giant Newfoundland.
Despite all these challenges thrown at you my friend , you still manage to deliver wonderful stories and gorgeous photos , well done , very impressed ! xox
I started to say that I wish I’d had you by my side, as I so often do in Sydney .. but actually, I would not have wanted the chance of you being blown over too. Thank you for all your messages. I do so appreciate them. xx
Oh Jules, I don my hat to you. Well done for getting through today.
Feeling your fear on the boat, with an excellent sailer at the helm, to do that by yourself 😱. Hope a had a large white to get your heart beat back to normal.
Thanks Ils, very much appreciated .. it was 2 large whites, as a matter of fact! xx
Dearest Jules, you have painted a picture of your daily adventures so well! I’m so glad you decided to focus on your safety rather than a “killer” shot – quite literally! Stay safe and well, my friend, and we appreciate all the effort you are putting in to keeping us all so well informed by your progress xxx
Lovely hearing from you, Roya. xxx
Well dome/ That sounds quite challenging enough for most folks!
Helen, when you come to the signpost which directs you either along ‘The Coast Path’ or ‘National Trail Valley alternative’ .. make sure you take the latter; unless it’s a wonderfully still day!
Well done for battling through in those conditions. I have done a lot of walking in the UK and that SW. Coast Path is the toughest anywhere.
I stayed at a youth hostel at Elmscott then went across country to Clovelly and then to Pusehill north of Abbotsham:
“On arriving at the village of Abbottsham I enquired at the little post office about possible camping, and various customers became involved, but I got no specific ideas. I set off to keep walking towards Bideford until I found something. After about half a mile a car came along and stopped and the lady driver said she had heard in the village that I was looking for somewhere to camp. She said I could do so at her house which was about a mile away and opposite The Pig on The Hill pub at Pusehill. I explained that I would have to walk, and agreed to meet her back at the house.
I ate at the pub…
…The landlord was a bit strange. At first he was somewhat reticent, but then given to occasional flashes of forced humour, particularly in communication with a group of four ladies who were dining there, and where his remarks tended towards macho anti feminism.”
Thank you Conrad. I must say I thought last night about walking cross country to Clovelly if the wind was still as strong today. I’ll make the call after breakfast! Really enjoying your diary excerpts.
After all you are walking the End to End not the SWCP so there is no obligation to stick with the latter.
Thank you Conrad!
Wow Jules, it feels as though we left you in the lurch to do such a tough day all on your own …
Well done for pluckily bashing on and making it through. Very Churchillian of you – with or without Black Dog in attendance. Xxx
Thanks Nick .. the reward was in the scenery. It’s utterly spectacular here. You must make a detour sometime and also visit The Bush Inn .. right up your street. xx
My dearest Jules – what a triumph of a day! So many congratulations for your accomplishment. And “Coast Path” sounds so benign… Genny’s church was just to die for, the primroses heavenly and the lichens spectacular. Kipling’s Smugglers’ Song was our house shout, as we used to call our inter-house singing competitions at school, in about 1973! Always loved it. This is going to make a cracking book!! Lots of love xx
I think you have lived life as a deep digger Jules – never really up for small talk – you are first to talk heart. Not surprising then that it was beating hard for you when you needed it! Just loving the virtual walking with you so far.
Beck, what beautiful words .. shall store them in my heart. It’ll be so good to walk and talk together. x
Intrepid is the word that springs to mind! Speaking of spring, it is interesting that the crocus are flowering in UK at the same time as Tasmania! Here we call it the Autumn crocus. Looking forward to seeing where Day 13 takes your sketchpad. Take Care!
Great hearing from you Olwyn. How interesting about the crocus .. what other English spring flowers do you get in Tassie? x
I just about shed a tear reading about your walk along the Cliff Path Footpath! Warm hugs.
Warm hugs gratefully received! Blue skies today although the wind is still up. x
What an eventful day! I’m amazed and in awe of the fact that you manage to do all this walking, draw a beautiful image and still write such a beautifully informative post. I thought my day was busy. I’m a friend of Adi’s and I know she is on her way to you with much excitement and trepidation 😜 I hope today is a good day, I look forward to hearing about it soon xx
Lecia
Hello Lecia! Lovely to get your message. I promise to take good care of our mutual friend! x
Jules – – a fantastic description – love reading about all the experiences and adventures – so wonderful and well done to you!! Look forward to more…..take care and lots of love
Jane
Lovely getting your message, Jane. xx
Fabulous words, fabulous photos, Jules. Having survived yesterday’s scary ordeal (which I shuddered to read about) you must now enjoy some Devonshire scones with the jam the right way up! Take care. Xx
Wonderful advice! May even have them for breakfast! x
Well done battling the elements….strong wind is the worst. I love your descriptions and piccys of wet stones…..it’s all visualizing stuff that lets us imagine your every step. Buying my walking poles today and have clocked up lots of miles in the last three days….going to and try and find Hills in London…….I hear Hampstead Heath is quite good!!
Great hearing from you, Liz. My poles were a gift from Patrick and are Black Diamonds. They’re terrific. Good luck finding the hills! x
Jules- my favourite posting so far! What spectacular scenery, such beautiful descriptions! I really feel like we are at your side accompanying you – just warmer and dry. I am in total admiration. I look forward to very days posting.
Thank you so, so much. Yesterday was a difficult but rewarding day .. and this morning I’ve woken up to clear blue skies! Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your comments .. they really do urge me onwards. x
Well done Jules – sounds like you have reserves of courage yet untapped! I love the Dachshund – best black dog of all!
Are you sure it wasn’t Bosco who wrote this message!x
Hello Jules … One of the joys of this walk is the change each day brings. Weather, landscape revealing beauty and drama and meeting new and lovely people. You challenge yourself by stepping outside your norms and defeating your fears. It is walking through those ancient places where you feel the deepness of time and ponder the lives of an ethereal population now departed. Reading your beautiful and exciting blog today I can see you are feeling all of that. xx
Hello Marilyn, you put it so beautifully and eloquently. I couldn’t agree more. xx
Sounds awful and terrifying and let’s hope you don’t have to dig too much deeper! Hope the clothes dried and you have a bit of sunshine today. Fabulous blog and gorgeous photographs. Full of admiration for you but occasionally think you are mad!! Lots and lots of love
Well, it takes one to know one! Clothes dry, as is the sauv blanc in my hand as I reply. Heaps of love, Jxx
Another great account of your day, it was quite heart wrenching thinking of you on your own battling through the elements. I wish I had half your courage and determination.
You are too kind, Jo .. I think we all find what we need to help us dig deep when there’s no choice. You would do the same!
Better in a 4×4
I’d challenge you to get up that cliff top in a 4×4, let alone keep a grip on it .. both physically and metaphorically! Thanks for the message. x
Respect
Thank you!