From: Barnstaple to Brayford
Distance: 16m / 25.6km
Cumulated distance: 201.2m / 323.8
Percentage completed: 19.57
Today I said goodbye to the coast, my husband and stairs. I loved the time walking on the South West Coast Path .. the views were spectacular. I’m not so sure I shall miss the stairs. The time with Patrick was short but very sweet. He lucked out by getting a short and cruisey day yesterday, punctuated by gorgeous cakes, great coffee and even better gin. Now that he’s gone his visit seems almost a dream!
The Beast from the East revisited the South West today, bringing with its visit much snow. But this time it was of the rather pretty fluffy variety and walking through it was largely a delight. I exchanged the South West Coast Path for The Tarka Trail, although the two do overlap for a while. You could argue that North Devon has taken Henry Williamson’s book ‘Tarka the Otter: His Joyful Water-life and Death in the Country of the Two Rivers’ and marketed the life out of it, to encourage tourists to visit the county. On the other hand, why not. The delightful and highly regarded book was first published in 1927 and has remained in print ever since. A beautiful film narrated by Sir Peter Ustinov was later made of the book, as well as an audiobook read by the honey-voiced Sir David Attenborough.
Starting out from Sticklepath this morning
Far better that the county is known for Tarka than for Norman Scott, the male model who in the 1970s, blackmailed local MP and Liberal Party Leader Jeremy Thorpe, over an alleged relationship between the two of them. The story goes that an ex-airline pilot was employed by a colleague of Thorpe’s to intimidate Scott. He started by setting up a meeting at a hotel in Barnstaple. The phone life was unfortunately very crackly and as a consequence, the pilot sped off to Dunstable in Bedfordshire, several counties away, to spend many fruitless hours waiting for his prey. Sounds very familiar to me .. as one who can mix up her Gatwick and Heathrow, Bangkok and Chiang Mai, February and March, 7pm and 17.00 etc etc etc.
From my hotel in Sticklepath it took me half an hour to walk clear of Barnstaple. The surrounding terrain was made up of gently rolling hills, with a good sprinkling of tiny villages and a steadily growing sprinkling of snow. At the main roundabout to the town there is is a fabulous group of sculptures called Barum Stenning. They were designed by Scottish sculptor, Patricia Leighton and commissioned by Devon County Council in 2006 at a cost of £120,000. There was a huge outcry from locals, due to the cost and look of the stones at the time. I think they’re rather beautiful and definitely very striking, making a great gateway for Barnstaple. My photo really does not do it justice .. take a look at some of the professional shots taken .. http://www.nevillestanikkphotography.co.uk/image/2075/Barnstaple/
Sticklepath roundabout sculptures
Finding the right bit of the Tarka Trail proved more of a challenge than I had thought it would be. It was in the industrial estate and I noticed the wry smiles on the faces of coffee drinkers at Costa, as they saw me through the window, making a second circuit around the B&Q. I held my head up high and read my map, rather than relying on the directions of various dog walkers and soon enough the Tarka Trail, going in the right direction, revealed itself.
Bridge across the River Taw to the Trail
Along the way there was evidence of kids enjoying the snow. I met several families, plastic sledges under their arms, out to find a slope before the Beast melted.
Maniacal snowman
Daffs surviving the inclement weather
Watching out rather optimistically for otters, I found instead that there was no shortage of abandoned boats. In fact there was a positive graveyard of old boats that wouldn’t pass muster nowadays.
Seen better days
Not going anywhere soon
Before long, the Tarka Trail took me across country, through fields and along river banks. It was as magical as I’d hoped, with the bright whites lifting the contrast of wintery greyness.
Woods along the river
Snow started to fall more heavily and soft drifts began to form along the sides of the lanes. There was a Laurie Lee feel to the whole walk .. quite the wrong area I know but somehow nostalgic and enchanting, all the same.
Thickly pleasing snow
As I passed a large tree, with a cosy nook at the bottom of its trunk, I disturbed a ewe and her twins who came stumbling out. I felt badly that they had lost their warm bed on account of me. But the lambs were curious and I was able to take several sweet photos of them .. sheep and snow is one of my favourite combinations in a landscape painting. My father always claimed that snowy paintings don’t sell but I’d be happy to have many on my walls.
Sheep emerging
Initially shy ..
.. and then enboldened
I loved this section of the walk, relishing the quietness as snow flakes settled, adding to the quilted softness of the fields and paths.
Loving the snow
The last three miles of the day had to be on roads so that I could reach my destination in Little Bray. But they were quiet roads and I only saw four or five cars, all going at snail’s pace to avoid having the vehicle get out of control. It had clearly been snowing more heavily the further east I walked and the hedgerows were heavy with drifts.
Snow in the hedgerows
Not far from my bed for the night, I came across this completely snowed in house. It so reminded me of the Blackberry Farm books and especially the one in which the family of mice are unable to leave their house because of the snow.
Snowed in
I received a very warm welcome from my hosts at Little Bray House. Especially as I really wasn’t expected. Oops. What was I saying about Gatwick and Heathrow?
Black Dog Tails
Search-dog Grace and Sgt Matthew Jones collected the Dicken medal, awarded posthumously to Theo, the springer spaniel. Theo, a springer spaniel, died from an undiagnosed seizure just hours after her trainer Lance Corporal Tasker died in Afghanistan.
Very much enjoying your walk and the blog. You really have witnessed some unusual weather! I hope the Beast from the East is soon replaced by the warmer and sunnier Guest from the West!
The Guest from the West would be most welcome! But then snow is wonderfully picturesque so I’m not complaining. Great to hear from you.
Hi, just started following your journey, a link from Conrad. So sorry about the weather but it added a new dimension to your photos.
I am familiar with the areas you are traversing and so impressed with your sketches. How long does it take you to complete one?
At the end of a day’s walking I hardly have the energy to post a blog never mind produce a masterpiece.
I hope you keep them and publish a portfolio of your journey in sketches, so much more evocative than photos.
All the best with your adventure.
Lovely to have you following, John and thank you for the kind words about the drawings. They each take a different amount of time to do .. anything up to 2 hours. However, I brought my mum on holiday to this area last year and did some of the drawings then. Just not feasible to do everything in situ. Sorry to disappoint! I will be putting them all into a book when I’ve finished which I know I’ll enjoy doing. If you’re an artist do take a look at my website: http://www.julesforth.com I usually paint rather than draw.
So much to resonate with here. I am enchanted by your occasional unfamiliar phrases: “lucked out.”
I read Tarka when I was about sixteen, circa 1960, and also the whole of the Flax of Dream, although Dandelion Days on its own had the most impact. The Tarka Trail for me was a bit of a drudge, but I was having knee problems although it would be another four years before I had my first knee replacement op. I read Cider with Rosie, again many years ago and remember it as being sickly and sentimental. Having said that I have re-read other books in the intervening period and changed initial opinions. I remember reading, with much enjoyment, the Blackberry Farm stories to my son and daughter, fond memories – thank you. I agree with you – sheep against the snow emphasise the range of colours they possess when previously one just thought of them as white – how wrong you can be. I look forward to your onward journey as it encourages me to re-live my own version.
I had the family Springer, Barney until about ten years ago until he was sixteen – we had endless walks together including Wainwright’s Coast to Coast, back packing – I still miss him.
I do love reading your messages, Conrad. How funny that you also enjoyed the Blackberry Farm books. I’m not sure they’re in print any more. ‘Cider with Rosie’ was indeed rose-tinted but the romantic in me rather loved that.
I know what you are saying when you talk about missing Barney. I still miss my black lab, Chuckles. He would have loved this walk.
Oh, this is all so wonderful Jules – you are being so absolutely amazing and the beauty of our dear country is… sssh..making me acutely homesick! All your preparations seem to be paying off as you are managing brilliantly! xx
You would so love it, Frannie .. every little thing about it. Today will be interesting .. Exmoor in the snow! Wish you could alleviate your homesickness by being with me! x
Lovely blog today Jules. So enjoying reading it each day. The snow looks beautiful and I loved the buried cottage and the mystery of what lies beneath. ..maybe it is abandoned or a holiday home? You asked me to put a link to my Journal of this great walk, so I will. http://www.ukendtoend.com The link is on the website and takes seconds to download. It will be 20 years on April 1 that Philip and I set off. I think the main change is technology. Everything on a smart phone. Philip carried an SLR camera and paper maps in addition to camping equipment. I am walking with you in my mind. xx
You’re quite right about the technology, Marilyn. Although my husband puts his head in his hands when he sees me still using paper maps! I will include the link to your journal on tonight’s blog. What a treat for everyone! x
Hmmm, a bit rough being lumped in with the stairs and the hubby. But she did infer that I was spectacular…
No inference now .. you ARE spectacular!! xx
That sculpture is known locally as Moanhenge after all the fuss when it was commissioned. I had planned to use the Tarka Trail through Instow to Barnstaple but not for the route to Simonsbath and Brayford. Thanks to your route I will now look at the map again. Thanks for the lovely photos and enjoy the snow; you look well prepared.
Ha ha! I thought it was spectacular. Looking out at the snow this morning I doubt I’ll be using the trail today, pretty as it is. Can’t count the number of times I’ve been thankful for my kit!
Lucky me , I have never experienced you mixing up Otto with Catalina nor Monday with Friday … But I always admire people who can acknowledge their idiosyncracies and laugh about them … With your honesty , I am being teased and asked whether I would like to borrow a sleeping bag for the GGW , and whether I got hooked on sleeping oudoors in the Larapinta . Your blog never disappoints my friend , it is such a treat , and my reward at the end of the day with a glass of wine , thank you ! xox
Didn’t I tell you about the tent you need to bring, my friend?! No, no .. only places that serve Sauvignon Blanc for us on the GGW! Lovely getting your messages .. always beautifully worded. xx
I’m loving the blog Jules and even Patrick was a decent fill-in 🙂 !
Alongside all this history and geography stuff – I’m dying to know how the gear is holding up….are you happy with your choices?
Great hearing from you, Anna. I had someone else ask about gear today so I think I’ll write a bit in tonight’s blog. It’s all been fantastic actually, although I really never thought I’d get a second dump of snow so packed off my thermal leggings and ski gloves on Day 4!