From: Brayford to Simonsbath
Distance: 10m / 16km
Cumulated distance: 211.2m / 340km
Percentage completed: 20.54
The view from my bedroom window this morning was very pretty .. gone were the high winds of yesterday and in their place the sun shone across the blanket of fluffy snow. It was royal icing scenery.
Little Bray House
My lovely hosts treated me to a delicious Aga cooked breakfast, which included eggs from their clutch of bantams. Little Bray House had been a very welcoming home for the night http://www.littlebray.co.uk My clothes had been dried .. also on the Aga and I was eager to get going as I had the third county in my sights. Somerset.
Bantam eggs
Crossing the border into Somerset meant walking on Exmoor. It’s an area of beautiful, hilly open moorland punctuated by deciduous woods. It takes its name from the River Exe, which flows a couple of miles north of Simonsbath, today’s destination. Exmoor is home to wild ponies, red deer, rare birds and to the Exmoor Beast. The ponies have summer coats which are fine and glossy but right now they’re still wearing their thick, two-layered protective coat which gives them a bit of shaggy, unkempt look. The true Exmoor is a sturdy pony, well-proportioned and sure footed. It has a large, well-shaped head with ‘toad’ eyes and is large and dark, with fleshy ridges above and below the eyes which channel the rain away. I was infuriated that when I came across two of them plucking up the last bits of grass not covered in snow, my phone’s battery decided it was far too cold to cooperate .. so I just stood and enjoyed the sighting.
Strangely enough my phone had had no difficulty performing when I saw sheep with their lambs earlier.
I DO love sheep!
Although the sun was shining it was bitterly cold and as the wind got up, the temperature dropped right down. I should have loved a balaclava today. With the wind chill I suspect the actual temperature of -2 degrees was more like -6. For the first time on the walk I could barely feel my fingers.
Icicles hanging from the wisteria at a cottage window
I had planned to walk along the MacMillan Way West today but I figured the chances of getting lost were high so I opted for the road instead. Even so, at times it was difficult to see that!
Thick snow on the road to Simonsbath
County number three!
View towards the moor
I would love to have come across the red deer on Exmoor today. There was a reasonable chance as there are 3000 of them. They’re the largest land animal in the country and have been living here since prehistoric times. I was hopeful that the males would still have their antlers, as they are shed every April and new ones grown. It occured to me that the poor ill-fated rhino would have a much better survival rate if this were the case with their horns. Each year the red deer’s new antlers have increasingly more points, making them easy to age. The older they get, the more majestic they look until they can pull off a very convincing ‘Monarch Of The Glen’ pose. (A bit like red lechwe, Patrick!) However, the only red deer I eventually got to see was a print of Landseer’s ‘Monarch of the Glen’ on my bedroom wall.
Exmoor
More bleak and beautiful Exmoor
I wasn’t so keen on coming across the Beast of Exmoor, however. If you consult wikipedia you’ll find that the Beast is a cryptozoological felid. Yeah. Just what I thought. Actually, that translates as ‘phantom cat’ and sightings of a black or grey leopard were first reported in the 1970s. At around that time, it was made illegal in the UK to keep wild cats in domestic captivity and so it’s not beyond the bounds of possibility that the beast could have been a leopard. Its existence reached notoriety in the ’80s, when a farmer claimed to have lost over a hundred sheep in the space of three months, all of them killed by sustaining gruesome throat injuries. There were even reports of the Beast seen ‘fishing’ with its paw in the river at Simonsbath .. which I can see from my bedroom window. (The river, not the Beast!) However, since The British Big Cats Society confirmed that the skull of an animal found on a farm in 2006 was a puma .. I think I’m safe.
When I was researching for the Walking The Black Dog adventure I read numerous blogs and books. They ranged from the ludicrous to the lyrical, with all sorts in between. I had three favourites which you may like to dip into if you’re enjoying hearing about this journey from Land’s End to John o’Groats. Marilyn Slater wrote exquisitely about the journey she and her husband Phil made 20 years ago. I had the good fortune to meet them both in Sydney last year and hear about their trip first hand.
Walking on the road across Exmoor was not too difficult but there were a couple of non 4×4 cars which really did struggle and twice I took off my rucksack to help push vehicles out of snowy ruts. It was good for conversation and for donations! Because I’d taken the road rather than the Way, I arrived at Simonsbath mid-afternoon. It’s felt luxurious to enjoy the warmth, cups of tea and the (glacially slow) wifi for a couple of hours before dinner. There will be times when there will be no wifi at all .. so please, gentle readers, don’t fret if there isn’t a post .. my satellite phone will have taken care of me if there’s been an emergency.
The Exmoor Forest Inn
Black Dog Tails
Meet Naida, the stray Siberian black dog who rescued four-year old Andrei Pavlov when he fell through the ice into a pond.
Morning! Much enjoying this beautifully written daily update Jules! Sleep well and look forward to tomorrow’s adventure x
Morning Kate! Slept v well and just heard a gritter driving past .. so I’m hopeful the day will be easier. Tell your husband to bring a little sunshine with him, please! x
Looks so cold for walking but also so beautiful Jules! Keep it up!
Thank you, Anna. A little warmer today I think and if the wind has dropped it will be magical. x
Glad you survived Exmoor in those conditions, cozy B and B’s are magic refuges in the snow. You did well to drag yourself away from the one in Brayford.
The weather will be warmer from now on.
I’ve just arrived down South, Abingdon, to walk some further sections of The Thames Path which you are familiar with.
You’re quite right .. the forecast is for 5 degrees today, which will make a big difference, especially if the wind has dropped. Give my love to the Thames. I loved that walk.
I can’t believe you have an article about Pavlov’s dog! With all that meringue-like snow there’s a pavlova reference lurking in there somewhere too; which brings us neatly back to the Antipodes. But is it to 🇦🇺or 🇳🇿 ? Let battle commence!
Hello Mary .. if it is indeed you! Australia love to think it was their invention but I suspect the Kiwis really hold the crown. Lovely to have you walking with me .. I so enjoy all your programmes.
You say a balaclava would have been useful and that leads me to notice that you didn’t publish a ‘kit list’. I guess it’s less important if you don’t need to carry tent, sleeping bag, cooking equipment, but you must still have a lot of ‘stuff’. Are you carrying everything with you each day, or do kind people shift some of it for you?
No I’m carrying all my own stuff, bar the maps which I’m collecting from pre-arranged places. I’ve stuck to the bare essentials .. so the pack weighs a scant 8kg. I should put the list in .. but don’t think I will until the end.
What weather you are experiencing!! My goodness, more like a trek through Siberia than the climes of
usually gentle Devon and Somerset. I do remember weather like that in Somerset…snow, icicles and hoar frost but it is not typical . An adventure for you though as these are the times you will remember more than the blue skies and drifting blossom in the heart of England. Each morning I look forward to your beautifully written blog and your marvellous drawing. Moving up the map now stronger with each new day. xx
Supposed to be warmer today .. well at least positive degrees! You’re quite right about feeling stronger each day. What I’ve been most surprised by has been the recovery time. On occasions I’ve been on my knees when I’ve arrived at the accommodation for the night but within half an hour and a hot bath, I feel strong as an ox! I can’t wait to see the blossoms .. feels a little as if we’re stuck in Narnia before Aslan made his come back. Thank you so much for your support, Marilyn. xx
Still can’t believe in super hot Sydney that you are experiencing cold and snow my friend .. I must say it makes your photos and stories all the more interesting with a variety of situations, stunning landscapes , a truly riveting book by Jules Forth will be published next year no doubt … May you experience all 4 seasons during your 2000km … already 340km done ! Spectacular ! xx
I know .. it’s always difficult to imagine other climes than the one you’re in, isn’t it! I always find that with packing. Thank you for your lovely and encouraging comments. It’s probably time to move on from winter now to one of the other seasons!! We’re going to have a lot of fun together on the Great Glen Way! xxx
In 2014 I walked the SWCP from Poole Harbour to Torquay then headed across the Two Moors Way to finish at Lynton. On Day 18 I also stayed at the Exmoor Forest Hotel at Simonsbath. Coming from the north of England I am used to moors covered with purple heather, but Exmoor and Dartmoor are different as you accurately describe – from my journal, 10th September 2014: walking towards Simonsbath:
“I was soon up onto what they call a moor around here, all very pleasant but no relation to Ilkley or Goathland. Here it is largely reeds, gorse, bracken and a bit of heather, and because of its suitability for grazing animals, close cropped grass. Ponies, cows, and sheep, and their leavings were the order of the day.”
Yes, the moors in this part of the world look a lot more hospitable. I’m looking forward to the desolation of the Yorkshire moors .. all that space with so little sign of habitation.
Thinking of you in the snow as we swelter in the Indian Ocean! Glad to hear that you have safely navigated Exmoor – what were the chances of doing that in the snow towards the end of March?!
Enjoy that sun but please make sure you bring back some! Thanks so much once again for my time with you, Alex. It was bliss. xx
Oh! I wish I could have waved a magic wand for you and a lovely warm balaclava would appear for you from nowhere! Alas. I see your backpack still weighs the same as Tottie – she is now 8kg! XX
You’re so lovely! Still would much prefer to be carrying Tottie rather than my rucksack! xx
Hi Jules,
Sending lots of warm wishes to you!! It all looks so amazing and I can’t imagine how cold it’s been. I look forward to your post each day, which is such a treat when I’m on the train to work. Thank you for sharing and for raising awareness on such important mental health issues.
Donna
Xx
Warm wishes very well received, Donna! Snow just about melted and we’re promised warmer weather .. but a suggestion of snow for Easter! x
Morning Jules, so pleased you are making good progress and enjoying your walk,I’m so enjoying your posts, what you are doing is amazing,
Keep safe , keep posting we’re loving it you photos are fab , we’re seeing places on Exmoor we have never seen
Sally x
Very kind of you, Sally .. we had such a nice stay with you in Westward Ho! x
Hi Jules, Congratulations on your walk. I am enjoying your blog and love the photos of sheep as I too love sheep, particularly English sheep. There are so many different varieties and some look very regal indeed. My husband Keith and I walked from John O’Groats to Lands End in 2010 – we did it the easy way – downhill!! We started in June in Scotland (summer – 12 deg av temp) and finished in November in Autumn. Keith has written a book called ‘Joining Loose Ends’ which is available on his website keithbadger.com. You won’t have time or connectivity to check it out now but maybe one day….. Meanwhile I am enjoying reading your daily accounts and although we did it in reverse, we finished on the South West Coast Path from Minehead to the End. The snow looks amazing – I hope you are keeping warm. Cheers Debby Badger PS Lucy Karnani gave me your blog details to read.
Marvellous to hear from you, Debby! I should love to read Keith’s book! If you are both Sydney-siders I should love to meet up on my return. J