From: Chedworth to Stow-on-the-Wold
Distance: 13m / 20.8km
Cumulated distance: 372m / 599km
Percentage completed: 36.2
The view across Chedworth valley could barely be seen from the window when I first looked out this morning. It had rained heavily all night. Yet another time when I was thankful I wasn’t wild camping. Instead I was warm and cosy at the wonderfully friendly and hospitable Baldwin House B&B. This is THE place to stay if you’re visiting Chedworth https://www.bandbcotswoldschedworth.co.uk
View from the bedroom window
With any other company today there would be grumbles about the wet. But no! Today I was being joined by Swampy and Nigel, whose effervescent optimism knows no bounds. So as we walked into the village of Chedworth the first game to be played .. they do like a game .. was listing all the positive features of rain. Tomorrow they’re going to guest edit so I’ll leave them to tell you all about them.
Imaginatively attired Swampy Junior and Senior
Delightful sign to decipher
Sometimes the oddest of occupations can lead to a lucky break. So it was for Thomas Margetts the game-keeper, when in 1864 while digging out a ferret, he came across one of the largest and best-preserved Roman villas in the country. In truth he found pottery and paving which hinted at what was beneath the ground .. a series of beautiful mosaic floors. Cirencester was the second largest settlement in Britain at the time the villa at Chedworth was built and it must surely have belonged to one of the wealthiest families in the country, judging by the extraordinary detail and beauty of the floors.
Leaving Chedworth village
It must have been the influence of Swampy and Nigel but half-way through the climb out of Chedworth the rain stopped. It was also the point at which the first navigational error was made, making for a steeper climb but less time in the mud. I was very happy to stay on the clean, dry track but the boys were still mud-virgins and so insisted we got back on the Mudmillan Way to get the whole experience.
The mud option
Getting into the spirit. Do note what smart hikers are using as backpack covers these days.
Walking through the woods was a delight. Not a soul to be seen and not a breath of wind to disturb the stillness or break the concentration of thinking about what Swampy could possibly have spied that began with J.
Chedworth woods
And on to Yanworth. Gorgeously pretty with another of those ‘food for thought’ signs to describe the attributes of the place .. what IS that white heap in the middle? I was out-voted thinking it was a ship on the ocean waves. What do you reckon, gentle reader?
Yanworth’s sign
The Church of St Michael’s dates back to the 11th century. Like many churches in the Cotswolds, its isolation from the village was likely due to the Black Death which swept through Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire in the 14th century. In order to try to contain the epidemic, many houses were destroyed and burnt to the ground, leaving only the church and a few substantial buildings standing. St Michael’s stands on the edge of the village with only Church Farm for company.
Deeply nestled church at Yanworth
After an unnecessary yet delightful circling of the church we walked on through fields of mud, occasionally deviating from the Macmillan Way and on to the Monarch’s Way.
Sticker replaces with a bona fide sign for my favourite Way
Walking through the Cotswold Hills was just heavenly .. softly undulating hills with verdant valleys and views across Gloucestershire when you reached the top. One of the highlights of the day was the village of Hampnett. I suspect that the absence of a pub has kept the village tourist free and it felt as if we’d fallen upon one of the Cotswolds closely kept secrets. Swampy fell in love with a row of cottages with a hopelessly romantic name .. while Nigel had his eye on the converted chapel, without the proprietorial cat.
Happy Valley cottages
More gorgeousness
Lunch was at the understated and hugely popular Plough Inn at Cold Aston. Excellent food and the ubiquitous black lab. And thereafter occurred the accidental highlight of the day. Before I could look at the map, Swampy confidently pronounced the Macmillan Way restarted to the right of the pub. Like sheep we followed and began our 360 loop of the village, ending up back at the pub. Little did we know but our folly was being observed by the Nicholson family, whose farmhouse overlooks the maternity field of sheep and their lambs that we had crossed. As we realised our error and reversed back up the hill, an energetic young woman came hot-footing towards us, inviting us in for tea! Her father had been looking out through his binoculars, at his sheep when he saw us trudging past. Quick-wittedly he saw the flag on my pack, liked the look of the black dog .. the family has two of their own .. looked Walking The Black Dog up on Google and sent his daughter out to invite us for tea. The whole Nicholson family took us into their warm fold for tea, cake, chocolate, cheese .. and we were bowled over by the kindness of strangers. It was one of life’s really special moments and we talked about it for the rest of the afternoon.
The wonderful Nicholson family
Cuddling one of their lambs
Delighting in their mother and daughter flat-coated retrievers
And then it was back to the mud, after a truly uplifting interlude. There were many opportunities to show inventiveness in avoiding the stuff .. some more successful than others.
Athletic Swampy trying to keep his shoes clean
Me, knowing there’s just no avoiding it.
Fabulous views as the skies tried to clear
Despite their murderous names, the villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter are not homes to notorious serial killers. They both straddle the tiny River Eye and slaughter or ‘muddy place’ refers to the boggy ground upon which the villages were founded. Far from being murderous the Slaughters are exquisitely beautiful Cotswold villages, with tourists flooding in throughout the year to see quintessential England. It’s easy to imagine yourself in a Helen Allingham painting or in a scene from ‘Cider with Rosie’, as nothing has been built in the villages since 1906, when the esteemed Sir Edward Lutyens (he of Rhodes House fame), built a final few cottages around the square in the lower village. Upper Slaughter is another of the Thankful or ‘Sainted’ Villages.
Lower Slaughter
After more creative map-reading we reached the hill up to Stow on the Wold. It’s an ancient Cotswold wool town which lies to the east of the Fosse Way, an old Roman road, which I know like the back of my hand. I’ve probably driven up and down from the Cotswolds to Leicester several hundred times, visiting my parents. The full length of the arrow straight road, is from Exeter to Lincoln. Edward the Missionary purportedly lived on the hill at Stow. The word ‘wold’ as in Cotswold, means hill and Stow refers to a holy place, so Stow on the Wold simply means Holy Place on the Hill. The town is chocolate box pretty, although after the hidden beauty of Hampnett, Yanworth and Cold Aston it felt very commercialised, with its Cotswold teatowels, mugs and souvenirs in many of the windows.
As we sat and had dinner, with rosy cheeks from being outside all day, we chatted about the day .. a very good one by anyone’s standards, even the Glass Half Full Swamp-meister and his dad.
Black Dog Tails
Bella is little Ethan’s ‘furry therapist’. Ethan has autism and Bella is a great comfort to him at stressful times.
Wonderful description of your happy day, complete with two stalwart friends and that tea with the hospitable family. The Yanworth sign appears to depict the Red Rose of Lancaster and the White Rose of York. Perhaps the white heap in the middle signifies York Minster?
Hope the rain lets up today. You look so happy. xx
Thanks for your message, Anthea. I suspect that John was right with the pile representing wool, with the Cotswolds being such a huge producer of the stuff. Feeling happy!! xx
Yay Jules – what a fabulous day!! Great company, the splendid Nicholson family and Swampy Senior and Junior who do indeed look like mud virgins! Those little villages look absolutely divine, especially as you say, the hidden ones. I could kick myself though, as I hadn’t done all the amazing research that you have – I have very good friends in Cold Aston!! What a chump, as my dad used to say! Have to say I’m feeling a little envious as to how often tea and cake make appearances…yum! Sleep tight xx
Cake, scones, staying at The Pudding Club .. all very tempting! Loved Cold Aston .. so much so that we took a second look! xx
A very cunning plan to bring in the Swamp-meisters Jnr & Snr to help deal with finding your way along the McMudlan Way. Can see you’re already getting results – we are in awe at the form swampy jnr shows going over those Cotswold hurdles. Can we be sure the Beast from the East didn’t have any effect on his clean post-medal testing results? All our bests as you trek north to bonnie Scotland, where you’ll find what real mud is like … no wonder we dispensed with the trews and went straight for the skirts – I’ll happily sponsor you £20 if you can post a photo of a Swampmeister in a kilt!
Our routes and distances coincide on this day, but me going north to south. Whilst I appreciate the pretty Cotswold villages and green, well tended, rolling countryside I was a bit more cynical about this area being an enclave for the super-rich, but I wont quote about this from my journal – I’m afraid it was all a bit radical, but it is there on my blog if you look back to 31st. May 2015.
Your accompanying illustration of the trees could only have been done by a true artist with that isolated composition and an atmosphere that is palpable – it is a view that most wouldn’t have given a second glance, but you saw the merit.
Thank you Conrad. Glad you liked the drawing .. I enjoyed making it. I loved seeing the more authentic Cotswold villages .. the thing that ruins them for me is when they become tourist magnets.
At Stow, you’re not far from where I live. You’re doing really well and obviously enjoying your adventure. Our paths won’t cross. My Great English Walk is going well. Am taking a break at Hathersage and start for Berwick upon Tweed on Wednesday, blogging at http://litehikersblog.blogspot.co.uk
I will look forward to reading your blog .. will be a treat to keep in store for a rest day! All the best. J
Yanworth’s sign? Pretty obvious really; We cross the sea to Egypt, nick stuff out of their pyramids, and shove it in a museum. Labour to create stability, and all that tosh. Perhaps a reference to not enjoying seasickness?
Several thousand years ago it was decided, – after due consideration, NOT to build the Pyramids in the Island off the north coast of the Continent.
– Another site was found near the Nile.
Hard work brings stability and this was a major consideration for the Ancient workers at Ghiza those years ago.
Hence the ‘pyramid’ on the sign harks back to that decision.
Great to follow your trail Jules.
So glad the Nicholsons gave you tea before you set off again.
Martin.
Wow, Martin .. I think the lounge suite is yours!! Thank you for the revealing and erudite explanation. Great hearing from you! J
A fabulous recount Jules, I feel I was almost there (but, sigh, I am warm and dry)
Much love to the three of you entrepid travellers xx
Loving having your boys with me! So lucky. xx
Hello Jules,
Greetings from Watson’s Bay, NSW where we are staying with Grant and Mish Oayda who shared your adventure with us. You be passing close to our village when you walk between Strathblane and Drymen in Stirlingshire, Scotland. If you’d like some company please let us know.
Good luck and well done so far.
David and Debbie Farquhar
Good to hear from you, David and Debbie .. lovely that you’re following the blog. Sure you’ll be enjoying the Sydney sunshine. I have a suspicion I may have my husband with me then .. just for a short time, so may I get in touch closer to the time, pls. Thanks for your kind words. J
What a great day, Jules. Much love from Corfu (did you know Corfu was on the route home from Milan? 🤔😉). Xx
Just as it should be! Enjoy the warmth. xx
Love the Cotswolds. You have walked through some of my favorite towns. Sounds like a wonderful afternoon. Wonderful how some folks can be so kind and hospitable.
The Cotswolds are indeed special and the kindness of strangers was very touching. x
Your postings are getting better and better, there’s a book in the making.
Wonderful that you have time to stop and stare…
What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.
No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.
No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars like skies at night.
No time to turn at Beauty’s glance,
And watch her feet, how they can dance.
No time to wait till her mouth can
Enrich that smile her eyes began.
A poor life this if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
William Henry Davies (1871-1940)
… relating to your visit to the Nicholson family. It was almost as that was planned. What a fabulous occasion.
And now you are adding quizzes for your humble readers – whats that plant, whats those holes, whats that sign?
We all got top marks for the garlic and burrows but the village sign – is it a pile of wool [important in the area] or snow [just to signify your passing]
John, what a wonderful message to receive at the end of the day’s walk. Thank you for taking the time to send the poem .. it perfectly sums up how I feel. Sipping tea with a biscuit mid-morning, with a vista in front of me is one of the treats of the day. I think wool is probably the answer to my question! Thank you.
Jules my friend , I just love the extent of your ability to surprise, educate and entertain us , I know you do love a quiz .:)
So what is that heap on the Yanworth sign … mud of course ! … No idea , do tell us . One thing I know , E Labore stabilitas means ‘From hard work comes stability’ . You will be the most stable person I know once you have finished that walk , if treading in all that mud is not hard work , don’t know what is … but you never lose your smile xoxo
Sophie, I should love for it to have been a pile of mud! Not sure myself but hoping a reader will come up with an answer soon. The mud is certainly having an impact on my clothes! Feeling very happy all the same. Much love xx
Jules,
I am worried.
According to the above you seem to be answering your comments at 3 o’clock in the morning.
You should be asleep recovering from the days exertions. I don’t want you slowly getting run down.
Anyway you shouldn’t be looking at bright screens after the witching hour, that’s what I tell my youngsters.
Please don’t reply to this inane comment if you are asleep!
John.
How lovely of you to be concerned. My computer was set up Down Under, so all the timings are Aussie .. very misleading!
Hi Jules
It was so lovely that you came to stay and thank you for your mention about our B&B.
You are a real inspiration, I have started reading your blog from the beginning so will hopefully catch up with you soon.
Loved your last two postings I have learned so much about where we live! Beautiful photos.
Poor Nigel do hope his leg is ok and well done to Swampy for holding out, can’t think how his footwear coped with the mud!
With love and best of luck for the rest of your adventure!
Caroline xx
Caroline, it was pure heaven staying at Baldwin House .. you have totally cracked the B&B code! Thank you for following. Jx BTW, did I leave a charger with you?! Will come and collect in June, if I did!
Found your charger!
No prob I can send it on for you, maybe good to allow a few days, let me know where you will be on Weds or Thurs I can send to that address.
C x
Oh that’s great! Thank you. However, I’ve replaced so may I collect from you at the end of the walk? Would be lovely to see you again. Jx