From: Inverarnan to Crianlarich
Distance: 8m / 12.8km
Cumulated distance: 925m / 1489km
Percentage completed: 78.2
Loch Lomond is the largest freshwater lake in the UK. I can now vouch for that personally and with great conviction. Yesterday was a very, very solid day which felt at times as if it would never end. Having said that, it was also one of the most beautiful days of the entire journey. Bluebells graced us just about every step of the way with their heavenly woodland perfume and the cuckoo was a constant companion. There were waterfalls around every corner and expansive views across Loch Lomond for much of the day.
Bluebells and cuckoos the entire way
Many hikers walk the 18.5 miles from Rowardennan to Crianlarich in one day. However, I’d read that despite it looking like a beguiling lakeside stroll on the map, it’s rather more demanding, especially after rain. Much of the path is it through forest, where roots seem intent on tripping hikers and mud keen to engulf. And so, taking the advice we decided to chop the suggested day in two, stopping at Inverarnan for the night, before continuing on to Crianlarich the following day.
Waterfalls ..
.. unfurling ferns ..
.. and beautiful patterns in standing water
Not too long after leaving the youth hostel we were given a choice of low and high roads on the West Highland Way. For the promise of views we took the high road, past Creag Goghlan-gaoithe, Ruadh Bruach and Creag an Tairbh. Truly. It was well worth the climb and the going was fairly easy, through pine forest.
View back over Loch Lomond
Looking ahead
Forest walk
There was another reason for shortening yesterday’s walk. As I’ve said, my sister and I both love wild birds and she knows a lot about them. Close to Inversnaid Hotel, which marked the mid-way mark, there is an RSPB nature trail set in protected woodland. Black grouse, pied flycatcher, redstart, twite, wood warbler, red kite and osprey are frequently spotted there. We were keen to see as many as we could and to spot the rare feral goats which populate the hillside.
One of the things you come to dream of when doing a long distance walk, is an idyllic little cafe suddenly appearing as you turn a bend in the path. Yesterday, my dreams came true with Cherry Tree Cafe. It really was just a tiny cabin but it sold home-made cakes and tea, was not marked on the map and did indeed sit beneath a flowering cherry in full blossom. It was completely dreamy!
Surprise cafe
There were a couple of miles more walking before we came to the halfway mark. We thought we were cruising, arriving at Inversnaid in time for an early lunch, which left us with several hours to walk the remaining eight miles in the afternoon.
The Inversnaid Hotel sits rather splendidly on the shore of Loch Lomond. It was once a hunting lodge for the Duke of Montrose and is steeped in local history, involving clan warfare, Jacobite Rebellions and Highland Clearances. The most famous local was undoubtedly Rob Roy MacGregor, the chap Liam Neeson played in the film of that name. He’s thought of as a folk hero, much in the same way that Robin Hood and Ned Kelly are. But quite frankly, I remain to be convinced. It’s certainly true that he was an expert buyer, seller and drover of cattle in his early years and that he extended these skills to becoming a successful riever of Highland cattle. For centuries the ‘Wild MacGregors’ were the plague of this part of Scotland and Robert MacGregor was the most infamous of the entire clan, known because of his mop of curly, red hair as Rob Roy.
Inversnaid Hotel on the loch shore
The Wild MacGregors were essentially extortionists .. stealing cattle and then extracting money from people in exchange for offering them protection from thieves. Our man developed a flourishing protection racket, relieving farmers of 5% of their annual rent to ‘keep their cattle safe’. Those who didn’t pay up lived to regret it. Rob Roy stripped them of all they possessed. Not a man to mess with and really more Kray than Hood to my mind.
Rob Roy’s hideout used during his cattle rustling years
Admittedly, he fell foul of the system himself and was forced out of his own home into a nearby cave to live … but I still find it exceedingly difficult to see why he’s so revered. I suspect the blame lies squarely at the feet of Sir Walter Scott, the Victorian novelist, who portrayed Rob Roy as a ‘dashing and chivalrous outlaw’. The book was lapped up by the public, with a record 10,000 copies selling in the first two weeks and Scott being favourably compared to Shakespeare. It’s not dissimilar to the Ned Kelly story.
It’s also believed the cave was used as a shelter by Robert the Bruce, after his defeat at the battle of Dail Righ in 1306. Legend has it that the Loch Lomond goats, a long established local breed, laid down in front of the cave and gave him protection as he was hiding in the cave from the English troops.
Feral goats on their own private beach .. offering protection for any wannabee king
If our morning had been cruisey, the afternoon was anything but. Over lunch we’d heard other walkers talking about the ‘most difficult stretch of the West Highland Way coming up’. I’ll admit I was a little sniffy about that .. after all I was a veteran of The Pennine Way and the South West Coast Path. But pride, as they say, always comes before a fall. The eight miles after lunch were about as slow going as you could possibly imagine, with boulders to scramble over, just about every inch of the way. We didn’t arrive at our accommodation until 7.15 .. another very long day, which Helks’ knee and my left foot did not appreciate.
Tight passageways to squeeze through
Helks decamping in the middle of the path .. past caring
Arduous ‘walking’
Islands in the loch
It became important to make short but frequent water stops and to look out at the vista to our left. When you’re tired and weary, with aching limbs it’s so easy to lose sight of why you’re putting yourself through the pain. I’ve learned along the way that it’s better to add fifteen minutes on to the day’s journey time and have these wee stops, simply so that you can maintain perspective.
Just beautiful
.. and yet more beautiful.
Keeping a sense of humour .. a discarded shoe used to decorate a tree
Turning away from the loch for the final stretch
The Doune Byer Bothy
We were sorely tempted to call it a day and bed down in the Doune Byer Bothy but it had already been commandeered by a group of friendly Germans, who we’d criss-crossed paths with all day. They’d got there in the nick of time with their towels.
First glimpse of the Drovers Inn across the River Falloch
An hour after we’d spotted the legendary Drovers Inn across the river, we staggered through its door. The sign of the abandoned pub across the road still managed to raise a smile ..
The Stagger Inn
But then our own Drovers Inn had way more to offer in the way of character .. and guests. But more about that tomorrow!
The haunted Drovers Inn
PS .. I had a lovely email yesterday from the owners of Millie, the black lab we’d recently seen on the beach. Just like my own Chuckles, Millie has been a great comfort to a family member during black dog days . Here she is again.
Millie
Black Dog Tails
Ralf works at the Royal Melbourne Children’s Hospital. He’s a gentle giant schnauzer who has helped the teeniest of children undergoing chemo.
Hey Jules … what a beautiful place! So inspired by your continued commitment… love your work! Keep it up mate xx
Hi Kellie .. thanks so much for keeping in contact. Really helps knowing there are people out there rooting for me! It is indeed a beautiful place.
I know that end of the day feeling well but by next day you will look back on it and feel proud for overcoming and making sensible decisions. Those kinds of paths with boulders and tree roots and narrow troughs make for very slow going and an inability to maintain any kind of rhythm, and if that is all combined with high temperature it is even harder. When you are really hot and bothered, as you so rightly say, it is best to take more frequent rests and re-group. You are going well and your appreciation of the Scottish scenery is shining through – it is so special – worth all the effort.
You’re quite right about the effort being rewarded by the scenery here .. Glencoe has been amazing.
You are getting there.
That is one of the worst sections as you found out, well done.
Did you spot any of those fabulous birds you listed – or was there no time?
Having hiked that route with a mate in 1982 and commented “very heavy going through trees and rocks by the Loch” I returned in 1993 with my teenage son on mountain bikes to cycle from Glasgow to Inverness. For some reason I thought the WHW up Loch Lomond would be fun, we ended up carrying our bikes for miles and man-hauling them between us. My son could only say “did you not remember Dad?”
This present weather is superb hope you take it with you all the way.
Your message made me smile, John! All goes to show how the arduous parts of our lives are remembered with rose-tinted spectacles! Thank you so much.
I think I’ve lived my life through those ‘rose-tinted spectacles’
Go Jules!!! Gus has been telling us all about your adventures. Great to read about them here! Can’t wait to continue reading about how you’re going and all the amazing places you are seeing. Sending much love and encouragement from Canberra! Mary 🙂
Mary! How truly lovely to hear from you! Thank you for your message .. will look forward to seeing you again in Canberra later in the year. x
Hang on there Jules! Sounds like a tough one, but if they say that’s the worst leg then you have the comfort of having conquered again! Well done Hell’s for being there to help you through the tough ones 😁
She’s been a complete star and now we’re just a day from reaching Fort William and the end of the West Highland Way .. definitely one for your bucket list. x
Mary! How truly lovely to hear from you! Thank you for your message .. will look forward to seeing you again in Canberra later in the year. x
Aaah, good to hear that you found the Cafe of Requirement (as in Harry Potter) when you needed it. Hopefully you didn’t stumble across the foot that had occupied the abandoned shoe. Well done for keeping going. we’ll raise a glass in your honour at Marcus Wareing tonight X
Love it! Patrick said it was a fine dinner .. and that he had the prime spot at the table! x
That’s very gallant. In truth it was one of those meals where every spot was a prime one, because it was such a delightful group. Only your presence could have improved it x
Dearest Jules – another tricky day under your belts. Enjoy your evening and rest. Always love reading your news. Lots of love xx
Hope you’re getting the same lovely weather for your anniversary and birthday down south, Frannie. xx
Wow, I’ve been following your trip daily since the beginning when we were both in Cornwall at the same time! I love reading about your exploits and am sometimes very tempted to do something similar. Not long now and your goal will be reached. I may take a trip up to where you are but definitely by car.
Thank you Jo .. always lovely hearing from you and great to have had your support all along the way. x
Jules you’ve had quite a few unexpectedly long days now and I am so impressed by how you’re keeping up the humour. All the best to your left foot which is really being very stoic. Beckxxx
My left foot says thank you very much. She’s not enjoying the ice much but likes all the sympathy! x
Oh dear Jules, I don’t much like the sound of pain. Please be kind to yourselves xxils
Thanks Ils. Hope you’re own voyage is turning out well. x