From: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Distance: 14m / 22.5km
Cumulated distance: 985m / 1585km
Percentage completed: 83.2
It was a wrench to leave Allt-na Leven. The breakfast was every bit as good as the accommodation and we set off with tummies full of fabulous fruit and delicious locally-smoked haddock and spinach fishcakes.
Fab brekkie
Today was our last day on the West Highland Way. We started by crossing the bridge over the River Leven, which sparkled in the early morning sun and then strolled on through the village. There was a lot to put a smile on our faces ..
River Leven in the morning sun
An engulfed pillarbox
Garden of gnomes
And a great sculpture by the river
And then we started the steep climb out of the village up a rugged wooded slope. There were bluebells to entertain the nose and the call of the cuckoo to delight the ears! Once again we joined General Wade’s military road, which levelled out a little and let us recover our breath enough to be thrilled by the flanking of the lofty Mamores.
Pathway through the forest ..
.. with chirrupping chaffinches
Once at the top the Way followed a beautiful broad valley west for almost five miles. The scenery was fantastic. There was no need to consult the map as the trail was very easy to see, winding away into the distance. It did occur to us that the marching armies who have used the roads over the years must have had feet made of sterner stuff than ours. The surface is crucifyingly difficult to walk across, with stones the size of bricks. It had us both trying to walk on the edge but that really didn’t help too much. I was reminded of a phrase my son uses when he thinks anyone’s making a fuss and whinging unnecessarily .. ‘Suck it up, Buttercup’. Harsh but fair.
Path winding into the distance
Feet toughening stones
We caught glimpses of Loch Leven down to our left. The water looked very inviting on such a hot day, so we decided to find our own little pool to take a break beside, where we could also ice our wee injuries.
Loch Leven
One of the many becks
Helks trying to ice her inflamed knee ..
.. and giving up!
Pristine sparkling water
Besides the pathway we came across a couple of tumble-down cottages. They must have been very basic, with just two rooms and a dunny on the outside. They looked picturesque in the sunshine but you can only imagine how the barren isolation must have felt on the other 364 days of the year.
Isolated cottage
Room with a view
Looking down at the river snaking its way along the valley
The turn north towards Fort William plunged us into pine forest, where we remained shrouded by trees for several miles. When we did emerge the sight of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, greeted us. Even though it’s May and fast approaching June, snow still clung to the mountain.
Ben Nevis
From my reading I know that many people who walk the Way, spend their last day climbing Ben Nevis. A brilliant way to finish. But me? The only thing I knew I’d be climbing was the Wooden Hill to Bedfordshire. It was a long hot day. Something you don’t fully realise is just how debilitating and slowing the heat can be while you’re walking. It’s crucial to drink gallons of water. We were both exhausted by the time we reached our hotel.
If there’s been anything that’s been disappointing about this journey it’s been how tired I still get each day. I naively thought when I was planning the trip last year, that by now I’d be able to carry on and even contemplate walking through the night. Hence why I’ve got longer and longer days coming up. It’s true that my recovery time is significantly improved and that I can forge uphill pretty fast now but I’m still tired at the end of the day. Some of that is due to the weather .. I’m useless in the heat. But I guess the larger part is due to the inflamed and swollen Achilles Tendon which is giving me grief for most of the day and now in the evenings too. I’m doing all that I can to alleviate the discomfort .. icing, anti-inflammatories, stretching and massaging .. but I’m now reconciled to the fact that it will be with me until John o’Groats. Looking back I think it was a large reason for feeling flat a week or so ago. It’s made me realise just how lucky I’d been for the earlier months .. a single pesky blister and a cold are not a lot to complain about. The rest days help but I guess I’ve just got to take my son’s advice and suck it up. There’s a perverse bit of me that also thinks, well, I wanted an adventure didn’t I .. I wanted to have to dig in. Well here’s the opportunity!
Enough introspection! Fort William is widely considered to be the ‘Outdoor Capital of UK’. There’s not much you can’t do in the way of outdoor activities, from leisurely fishing and walking to adrenalin charging mountain biking and muscle challenging Munro bagging. Perhaps the most sedentary activity of the lot is a ride on The Jacobite, the steam train used to take Harry to Hogwarts. I should LOVED to have taken this but I just don’t think time will allow on this trip.
Fort William
The little town of Fort William is compact and filled to the gunnels with outdoor gear shops. Heaven. Everywhere, Ben Nevis overlooks the town. We’re staying at the pretty Lime Tree Hotel on Loch Linnhe, which opportunely has an art gallery attached. Opportunely, because my sister and I are both artists and tomorrow we’ll be joined by a lovely friend from Sydney, who also happens to be an artist. I’m very excited as well that the hotel’s website has an entire page devoted to Coire, their Ambassadog! Apparently she won’t leave your side till she gets a pat and a cuddle. SO my sort of dog!
The Lime Tree is actually one of the town’s oldest buildings and was designed in 1850 as a manse for the Church of Scotland. It was home to the Church Minister and his family but was also used as a meeting place and often gave shelter to the destitute. When the last minister left the manse in 1994 he said, ‘There have been so many good times in this building. I think the walls will be full of prayers.’ Since then, the current owners, David Wilson and Charlotte Wright, have renovated the manse and also built a separate gallery which shows David’s work as well as hosting touring shows. The restaurant is also award-winning. The Good Food Guide says of it, ‘We had angels dancing on our tastebuds’. What a fun place for a rest day.
Black Dog Tails
Lola works in Calais with her handler to detect any terrorist activity and illegal immigrants.
Well I think under the circs you’re totally entitled to have a whinge!! Very well done for ploughing on regardless. The photos just get better and better. Xx
You’re too kind, Woze! Thank you so much. xx
One of the joys of Scotland is the huge number of bagpipe tunes which feature the names of places and people. For example, close by you is Glenfinnan, which inspired a well-known 2/4 march “The Glenfinnan Highland Gathering”, oft played by the Churchill Pipe Band in Rhodesia. Of course there are tunes featuring more far flung places, e.g. “Piper Alick Murray’s Farewell to Gallipoli”… and then some just strange ones, e.g. “I laid a herring in salt”, or “I would have preferred thee at first, but not now sir.” The product of centuries of history and large amounts of whisky…
Piper Frothington, I love getting your messages! Do you think there was Portuguese inspiration for the tune ‘I laid a herring in salt’? I’m still waiting to hear the sound of the pipes in Scotland .. very sad not to have heard them yet. xx
Still with you, Jules. Very sorry indeed to learn that you are coping with painful parts of your anatomy and that Helkes has such a bad knee. How much longer is she with you? Amazing photos. A lot of very barren and rugged countryside, but with its own beauty. Could you not allow yourself an extra two or three days? Is it imperative that you complete your massive feat of endurance in exactly 89 days?? “May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be at your back………”. xxx
Lovely getting your encouraging messages, Anthea. My sister has left to go home but her place has been taken by a lovely friend of mine from Sydney. How lucky am I. I’ve just booked in an extra day towards the end .. so, sort of taken your advice! xx
Hi Jules , I feel for you with your foot pain. You are being brave and I hope the pain lessens as you are getting close now to the final days of your long walk. The photos are great and weather too. I agree with you though that colder days invigorate the pace. Thinking of you and wishing you good walking. xx
Thank you Marilyn .. sunny weather set to stay until Friday. So sunshine till I get to Inverness and then rain from there. Always good to get your thoughtful messages.
Hi Jules, you’re eating up those miles. I have been anxious over your feet niggles. Time for mind over matter, this Will not undermine your resolve.. Best and sincerest Wishes Phil
Can’t believe it’s a matter of only a couple of weeks now .. you must have been just as amazed when you got this far. I will set the mind to work! Thank you for your message.
Dear Jules – even though you have told us about your discomfort, we have no idea what it feels like day in day out. Sending so much support to ease you through till the end. Lots of love xx
Thank you, Frannie .. you have been a wonderful support throughout. xx
Hi Jules, Your perseverance and photos are both amazing! I am sorry to hear about the challenges that you are experiencing in your physical body, but I guess not surprising given your activities….I am sending positive and healing energy your way; may they not worsen, or may they even improve in the the time you have left on the trail. Speaking of which, I am starting to feel a little sad that I won’t be receiving your daily missives in my inbox in just another two weeks. Your description of your journey has been really educational, interesting and amusing. And the pictures! Thank you and ‘good on you’ for what you are doing for this important cause, lots of love, LUCYxo❤️
Such lovely words, Lucy. Your pink heart encourages me daily! Will look forward to seeing you back in Sydney. xx
The scenery on your WHW hiking days has been spectacular – I look forward to walking this route myself some day. Sorry to hear about your sore Achilles tendon, Jules. Not fun.
It was very beautiful and now it’s lovely to be seeing a different sort of beauty with the Great Glen Way. Definitely one for you and Doug to do!
Keep going you Trojan.
How about a refreshing swim in one of the lochs?!
Once upon a time in the 80s Lisa & I spent Hogmanay beside Loch Ranoch. Fuelled by booze two of the girls went for a swim at midnight- none of the men brave enough. I was charged with running a hot bath for them from the limited supply of hot water; failed to put the plug in properly- no bath, no hot water left, much screaming!
That made me smile, Harry! Was Lisa one of the brave swimmers? Can only imagine how unpopular you were!
Jules, sorry about your achilles. This may have been said before but I would recommend a heal raise in your boot, one of those sorbothane or gel type inserts that can be purchased in Fort William, which shorten the tendon and take some strain off it. As well as the ice, massage and evening elevation and stretching measures you are taking. In the past I have made my own from cardboard and karrimat.
Best of luck, the walking should be a little easier in the coming days if they are not too long.
Thanks for that, John. I’ve put a couple of small heel raisers in but could put another one in, so will. Also have a friend with me now who is giving me daily massages which is helping enormously. Thanks for the tips.
I’m glad you found some good smoked haddock, anything would be better than the rubber we had when we were with you! We’ve been charging around the country but are now about to fly to Rome for a week in Italy..bliss. Keep ploughing on, there’s so much of Scotland it seems to go on and on but you’re doing so well. Much love from us both xx
Shauna, lovely hearing from you. I SO enjoyed my time with you and Adam. Enjoy Italy .. it’ll be beautiful. xx
This part of your walk is looking beautiful and wonderful to see you getting such divine weather. We stayed at the Lime Tree Hotel 4 years ago when I came to do the CMD Arete ascent of Ben Nevis. We had magic weather too. A fine memory for me and now about to embark on the Pennine Way. I fly out from Sydney this Friday to start officially on June 4. When are you planning to finish LEJOG. We will be in Edinburgh from June 20 if you are still around otherwise would love to catch up for a coffee when we both return to Oz. Wonderful walk, blog, art and information. Keep it going. You are doing brilliantly well.
Lime Tree was a treat! YOu’re going to love the PW. I finish in 10 days time so it will have to be a coffee in Oz .. will really look forward to it!